Quote:
Originally Posted by Anth10
Martin,
This advice is well received. Thankyou for your insight. I agree that using the V3 narrowband filter has caused the colour cast you mention of. I have to say to be honest the short integration from the imaging using the uv/ir cut was far more true to colour and although only half an hour spent it was showing far more promise than the hour of filtered integration using the V3.
I usually image at iso 800 as you suggested but tried a different tact lowering it to minimise noise- there was banding present in the subs as a downside which comes from lack of signal perhaps-
This was my first attempt using Ha and again you’re right- not much gained from the galaxy but the core did help sharpen a little.
Appreciate your tips.
Cheers,
Anthony.
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Lowering your ISO will reduce resulting signal more than reducing your noise. ISO is just the level of amplification of your signal ( amount of photons hitting the sensor ) via the Analog to Digital unit in your camera
ISO 800 is the best setting for dynamic range across the image ( white point to black point ) and adjust ( lower ) your exposure times , takes more and more exposures to increase Signal and Dither your subs plus use Calibration frames with your stacking to reduce noise
Banding can be minimised by dithering your subs ( when using a DSLR , dithering is a must ) I use to dither every frame by a calculated number of pixels ( makes a huge difference in noise floor in particular fixed pattern noise
Are you taking calibration frames ?
Flats are a must ( dust donuts and vignetting removal ) to produce a flat field
Darks are a must ( reduces thermal noise or hot pixels ) separate darks with cap on scope not internal noise reduction darks.
Calibrate your Flats with either Dark Flats or Bias frames
Here’s the Astro settings I used on my Canon 600D ( I’m sure they would be applicable to the 60D )
Cheers
Martin