Hi JA,
I believe that is a Similar concept to what I suggested in my last sentence. I'll put up a drawing tonight
Thanks,
Josh
Hi Josh,
What I got from your last sentence description was a locking mechanism (2 tabs + screw between them) something like this....
I was suggesting a not dissimilar OTA split style clamp - I should have added of the hinged type (like a mini Parallax Brand clamp, which could bear down on a plain outer surface of the red ring, however, now reconsidering it given the slim size, forget it. Yours would be easier to manufacture. Heck, one could even use a jubilee style hose clamp if there was a plain outer surface on the red outer part to help quick prototyping.
Yes exactly like that.
I to thought of a something like a hose clamp or an over center clamp, but that would be too bulky, would look kind of unsightly and would need another tool to operate
So, yeah I recon something like in your photo would do the trick, it would easy enough to manufacture, be made to look aesthetic and easy to use.
I'm actualy going to make the clamp integral to the outer rotation threaded ring.
Cheers
Josh
Last edited by Joshua Bunn; 13-06-2022 at 02:50 PM.
I'm thinking something like this. Its the same as Stefans design, but with the compression ring which also acts as the rotating ring. That is an m4 bolt, probably overkill, I may reduce the size of it. There are no real beveled edges on this drawing, the real thing will have, though.
I appreciate the desire for no tools, however, this is something that will get used a few times then not anymore for a while just like a tilt adapter, which uses tools. Having said that, Ill try to fit in a thumb screw/knob, big enough to get enough purchase on it.
The other limitation with a thumb screw is the head really shouldn't be any bigger in diameter than the width of the adapter, in this case 8mm, to avoid it hitting any other adapter that might be near the face of this adapter.
Josh
Last edited by Joshua Bunn; 14-06-2022 at 11:30 PM.
Cool, it'll be interesting to see what you think of them.
they turned up today! And of course, there's so much rain here I could fill a pool within a day. Will be a while until I can test them out, but they appear to be fairly simple. 3D printed and thickness of 0.7mm, 0.6mm and 0.48mm (should be 0.5, but I'm splitting hairs )
filter masks
the ones out there now (at least for QHY cameras, I can't confirm for ZWO) are 3D printed. I'd love some metal ones with maybe a thin layer of felt underneath to protect the glass. I feel they wouldn't flex as much as the 3D printed ones can. I have a couple of sets, and the ones from BuckeyeStargazer deform into a shape that isn't circular!
Don't know how hard this is to do, considering how small/thin they'd have to be.
I'm thinking something like this. Its the same as Stefans design, but with the compression ring which also acts as the rotating ring. That is an m4 bolt, probably overkill, I may reduce the size of it. There are no real beveled edges on this drawing, the real thing will have, though.
Josh
I've been thinking on this a bit over the last few weeks, could using some kind of slip ring or dovetail ring on one side simplify the design?
I'm envisioning a 3 piece system, very similar to what has already been proposed, the telescope side would have a thread for attachment, and a dovetail ring. your adjustment ring would slip over this and be able to freely rotate on the dovetail ring. it would extend out past the front (camera side) of the dovetail and similar to the existing design would engage with an externally threaded piece that will move in or out based on the rotation of the adjustment ring.
Silver retaining ring, screwed to the face of the Orange threaded piece. Blue piece rotates and screws the green piece in and out. To lock the position I envision the current split ring design? For the below i've sized it with a M48x0.75 internal, and am using a M54x0.75 as the screw thread. I haven't dimensioned it very well, but the idea makes sense...i think?
If you incoorporate index marking around the outside, it can double as a rotator as well.
Last edited by joshman; 05-09-2022 at 07:42 PM.
Reason: words are hard
I like your thoughts here, I recon it would work well, just need a few dowel pins to keep the orange and green parts orientated. There is one thing i would try and change though... the dovetail need some clearance to rotate (if it has no locking ring), and unfortunately clearance mean free-play and movement, possibly introducing tilt. did you have a solution to this?
I have a different design (to yours and Stefans) that I am working on now, Ill see how that goes.
I'm contemplating asking for an adaptor - what sort of drawings / info do you need from me? (I am crap at driving a CAD package, so detailed drawings or 3D models are not going to happen.)
You can send me an email to scastrophotography@outlook.com detailing in words and a drawing if you like, what it is you are after and we can go from there.
I like your thoughts here, I recon it would work well, just need a few dowel pins to keep the orange and green parts orientated. There is one thing i would try and change though... the dovetail need some clearance to rotate (if it has no locking ring), and unfortunately clearance mean free-play and movement, possibly introducing tilt. did you have a solution to this?
I have a different design (to yours and Stefans) that I am working on now, Ill see how that goes.
regards Josh
Thats good to know i'm on the right track. i was thinking of making the blue piece a split ring, with the split cut on a fairly steep angle to stop light leak.
EDIT: On second thought, maybe trying some kind of wedge system instead?, maybe the silver piece could thread in to wedge and lock the dovetail piece in place? being a wedge design it would self-centre as well. that way you can lock it in place as well without having to worry about light leaks. Personally I would still forego the dowel pin in favour of being able to use it as a rotator. Maybe have a secondary lock between the blue and green pieces to preserve your spacing?
Another idea is to use a tried and true Turn-bucklet style LH and RH thread combo something like the attached. I've used a very coarse 2mm pitch for the extension thread, for every full 360deg of the centre piece you gain 4mm overall of extension. you could put a pin from each of the recievers that will stop on a centre obstruction to prevent completely unthreading and limit the overall in/out travel. still not sure how tightening this would work with regards to light leaks. Again, index marking the central piece could translate to pretty precise extension values (1mm/90deg turned, mark at 9deg increment for 0.1mm of extension.
Don't forget the constraints before you put more thought into this: Minimum thickness 8mm, extended thickness at least 12mm.
Ok, Constraints of minimum 8mm thickness, +4mm of extension. i think the first design could be made to suit that. I assume a female-male connection is required?
I think the second design could get down to minimum 10mm thick with upto 4mm of extension.
Out interest, how deep are you allowing for the engagement of scope/camera side threads? 3mm?
