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Old 28-04-2021, 11:09 AM
BeardFace (Nial)
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Telescope types for automated/remote observatory

Hey all,

I'm keen to hear what types of telescopes people are using in their automated observatories, and why you chose that particular design. Did you choose a refractor so you didn't have to worry about collimation? A fast newt for quick imaging? An RC because the collimation would hold longer?

For some background: I'm making gradual progress on my observatory and wanted to plan ahead for what telescope will be the final installment. Right now I've got an RC8 and ES ED80 using an AZ EQ-6 mount, with the RC8 probably being the first thing that sits in the observatory. I'm probably going to want something that won't require a lot of fiddling when its setup, and something that will be good for mosaics. I also know I'll need to upgrade my mount to maybe a CEM70 or CEM120 depending on the tube weight I go with.

So yeah, what did you choose and why?
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Old 29-04-2021, 05:44 PM
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gregbradley
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I don't have a remote observatory but have 2 manual ones.

I have seen various scopes used for remote applications. Usually a high quality one.

It depends on the type of image and object you want to image.

Those categories are wide field, medium power for general objects and long focal length for galaxies and small objects or close ups of larger objects.

Tak FSQs and similar 105mm APO refractors are good for widefield imaging. Widefield is around 500-700mm focal length.

The downside of the FSQ is the need for constant refocusing with temperature drops. Other APOs will also need refocusing with temp drops but not as often as an FSQ.

Medium power would be around 1200mm focal length.
That would be for objects like Thors Helmet, Herschels Ray, Centaurus A, Sculptor galaxy and most nebulas. Generally speaking though Galaxies are more the realm of longer focal lengths.

Longer focal lengths like greater than say 1260mm is for galaxies, planetary nebulas, nebulas, globular clusters.

One consideration would be a scope that does not shift focus too much once its cooled down. Carbon fibre bodies are good for that. Carbon fibre truss telescopes and fan cooled mirrored scopes like RCs, CDKs etc.

The mount and focuser are more important considerations for a remote observatory. The mount has to be able to be accessed remotely. Not all mounts do that, in fact not many do and they are usually expensive.

If you go to the trouble and expense of building a remote observatory and I expect it would cost a fair bit (at a guess $20,000 to $25,000) then you would have to put a high end scope in it to make it worth it.

Also the seeing needs to be decent for long focal length scopes. They also need darker skies to get their best.

At home I have my observatory linked by serial cable to my home office and I run it from inside. I open up manually and close manually. I pick an object, frame and focus and begin a sequence of LRGB or Narrowband exposures. I check in on it from time to time to see if all is going well, focus is still sharp or refocus.

If something goes wrong its a short walk to the observatory to sort it out.
Despite using the same gear night after night its amazing how often something odd occurs that needs physical intervention. You'd have to factor that in with a remote observatory. It would not take much to need attention in person and I imagine there are many visits in the initial operation of one.

I use temp compensation on my focuser to automatically shift focus with temp shifts. This works reasonably well although refocusing is ideal.

If the problem you are solving is access to dark skies with good seeing that is far from your home then make it worth it with decent gear. Its hard enough with top gear.

Greg.
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Old 29-04-2021, 07:46 PM
Startrek (Martin)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley View Post
I don't have a remote observatory but have 2 manual ones.

I have seen various scopes used for remote applications. Usually a high quality one.

It depends on the type of image and object you want to image.

Those categories are wide field, medium power for general objects and long focal length for galaxies and small objects or close ups of larger objects.

Tak FSQs and similar 105mm APO refractors are good for widefield imaging. Widefield is around 500-700mm focal length.

The downside of the FSQ is the need for constant refocusing with temperature drops. Other APOs will also need refocusing with temp drops but not as often as an FSQ.

Medium power would be around 1200mm focal length.
That would be for objects like Thors Helmet, Herschels Ray, Centaurus A, Sculptor galaxy and most nebulas. Generally speaking though Galaxies are more the realm of longer focal lengths.

Longer focal lengths like greater than say 1260mm is for galaxies, planetary nebulas, nebulas, globular clusters.

One consideration would be a scope that does not shift focus too much once its cooled down. Carbon fibre bodies are good for that. Carbon fibre truss telescopes and fan cooled mirrored scopes like RCs, CDKs etc.

The mount and focuser are more important considerations for a remote observatory. The mount has to be able to be accessed remotely. Not all mounts do that, in fact not many do and they are usually expensive.

If you go to the trouble and expense of building a remote observatory and I expect it would cost a fair bit (at a guess $20,000 to $25,000) then you would have to put a high end scope in it to make it worth it.

Also the seeing needs to be decent for long focal length scopes. They also need darker skies to get their best.

At home I have my observatory linked by serial cable to my home office and I run it from inside. I open up manually and close manually. I pick an object, frame and focus and begin a sequence of LRGB or Narrowband exposures. I check in on it from time to time to see if all is going well, focus is still sharp or refocus.

If something goes wrong its a short walk to the observatory to sort it out.
Despite using the same gear night after night its amazing how often something odd occurs that needs physical intervention. You'd have to factor that in with a remote observatory. It would not take much to need attention in person and I imagine there are many visits in the initial operation of one.

I use temp compensation on my focuser to automatically shift focus with temp shifts. This works reasonably well although refocusing is ideal.

If the problem you are solving is access to dark skies with good seeing that is far from your home then make it worth it with decent gear. Its hard enough with top gear.

Greg.
Greg,
Don’t underestimate the capabilities of the humble 8” f5 newt ( 1000mm FL ) which sits in my NexDome on the south coast
I’ve captured some fairly good Galaxy images down to mag 11 with my 8” under Bortle 3 skies. I even captured some good Galaxy images in Sydney under Bortle 8 skies with my 6” newt ( 900mm FL ) during the new moon period
But yes I agree bigger aperture longer focal length scopes are more suited for capturing Galaxies in larger scale and more detail
Here’s a some of my Galaxy images using the humble 8” and 6” newts
Cheers
Martin
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Old 30-04-2021, 01:13 PM
AstroApprentice (Jason)
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remote obs

Hi Beardface,
FYI, here's some new toys designed for a remote obs:
Motorised OAG
https://pegasusastro.com/products/scops-oag/

Motorised polar alignment
https://www.avalon-instruments.com/p...s-wi-fi-detail
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Old 30-04-2021, 03:11 PM
BeardFace (Nial)
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Posts: 30
Thanks for your thoughts everyone, a lot of great info here. I should probably re-classify the observatory as "semi-remote" as it will actually be sitting on my family's farm that I visit every two weeks or so. But the skies are pretty dark out there, and I like a good project, so hence the observatory.

As for telescope I've been doing a bunch of research over the week and I'm leaning towards:

-GSO RC12A
-TS-Optics 0.67x for RC telescopes
-Rainbow Secondary mirror focuser
-CEM120 mount

This would put me at 1633mm focal length for f/5.3, which is not too dissimilar from my RC8 which is at 1625mm at f/8. I've also read a lot about the .67 reducer and heard good things, plus it should work perfectly with my asi2600 camera. On top of that I've read that these truss tube RCs are actually pretty good, despite the GSO reputation for the fixed cell RC tubes, plus after my many attempts on the RC8 I think I've gotten pretty used to RC collimation.

Aside from the standard RC collimation pains can anyone see any glaring issues with the above?
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