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  #41  
Old 28-08-2021, 10:01 PM
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Eldest_Sibling (Alan)
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Extra circles were described, and as guide-lines whilst dressing out the diameters with a sanding-drum, for improved accuracy. Also, the pilot-hole for the scroll-saw's blade was drilled...

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One nice surprise: I did not see any epoxy along the sawn edges...

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  #42  
Old 29-08-2021, 05:09 AM
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Here, it is just about to drop...

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  #43  
Old 29-08-2021, 06:01 AM
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A few more times round the inner diameter with the sanding-drum, and...

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...dropped.

"Look Mum, no gap!"...

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Much to my surprise, the outer diameter, of the thing or washer, where I had simply and randomly stopped sanding, turned out to be exactly as that of the scope-cap...

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That is what is known, in a strange vernacular, as a "coinkydink".

Next, I will need to reduce the outer diameter of the thing until it drops into the cap. It won't take too terribly much to drop it, only the thickness of the wall of the cap there.
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  #44  
Old 29-08-2021, 10:03 AM
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Drat...

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The thing just couldn't take the heat from the sanding and grinding. It just wasn't in the stars to be.

I have enough of the aluminum to do it all over again, but why would I want to do that?

Back to the drawing board.
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  #45  
Old 29-08-2021, 10:40 AM
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I did learn from the failure. I didn't take the scope-cap into consideration. I will need to make the new thing the same diameter as the date-dial of the polar-scope, and with the same inner diameter as before.

I've ordered a 4" x 6" aluminum sheet, and 3.2mm thick. I should've ordered that the first time. I should receive it more quickly, as it will be sent from a state adjacent to my own. We'll see.
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  #46  
Old 01-09-2021, 09:53 PM
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The 3.18mm-thick aluminum is currently, "Out for Delivery, Expected Delivery by 3:00pm".
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  #47  
Old 02-09-2021, 04:54 AM
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I've never had aluminum stock this thick before...

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It sits right at 3.07mm, according to the caliper. At that thickness, I won't have to radically adjust the date-dial of the polar-scope via its retaining-rings, like I would've with the old spacer; perhaps only very little or none at all.

The old spacer sat at 3.37mm, incidentally.

If I'm careful in laying the spacer out on the sheet, I can probably get a total of three spacers out of it, in case mistakes are made.
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  #48  
Old 02-09-2021, 08:39 AM
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I couldn't describe the outermost circle right on the edge of the sheet, as this sheet is not quite squared, and it was not sawn but seemingly chopped out, as one or two of the edges are slightly bevelled...

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But there it is nonetheless. As to when it will be sawn out, that's anybody's guess, including my own.
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  #49  
Old 03-09-2021, 09:29 AM
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  #50  
Old 04-09-2021, 04:20 AM
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Isn't it lovely?

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Success; the next thing to do is to line the inner rim of the cap with flocking, and perhaps with aluminum tape as a substrate, depending. There were ridges round the inner rim of the cap, and were obliterated. I never did like plastic ridges taking up slack, in this instance, or as bearings in the case of draw-tube runs within focusser housings...

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  #51  
Old 04-09-2021, 07:31 AM
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My thinnest self-adhesive felt, even with the plastic ribs round the inner rim obliterated, would be far too thick for this. I didn't even attempt it. Instead, I got my older paper-backed flocking and installed a strip of that. But it was a bit too thick as well, to my liking. My newest flocking is not paper-backed, hence thinner, but not by much. Still, I had no other choice...

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It's quite snug, although I expect it to loosen up a little over time, but not too much I hope.

Thank goodness that's done.
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  #52  
Old 07-09-2021, 10:16 PM
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Since my last reply, one of the things I've been doing is anguishing over how to re-attach the plastic covers for the altitude/latitude axis...

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I didn't want to simply glue them back on, but I can't think of any other way. So, I've resigned myself to gluing them, but not with a hard-curing glue in case I need or want to pop them back off in future. Fortunately, the cover with the markings re-seats exactly as it was positioned before.

Otherwise, the head has all or most of its other accoutrements attached...

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For two or three days I hunted, to no avail, but finally I found the 7-pounder of the two counter-weights that came with the old CG-4(EQ-3). It also came with a 4-pounder...

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Also shown is the 11-pounder that came with the new Meade head, just that one. Then, at the top, the 8.2-pounder that came with my old Vixen GP-DX head.

I should be all set, and to mount most if not all of my telescopes onto the new EQ-5 head. I do wish I could find a 2-pounder. Perhaps I can get by without one lighter when mounting my smallest of telescopes.

When I had gotten the Vixen GP-DX long ago, it came with at least that 8.2-pounder, if not a smaller one in addition. I can't remember. It probably didn't. But at the time, I did get these two 11-pounders in black, and now in rusty-black...

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I had gotten those two 11-pounders for mounting my 8" f/5 Newtonian, but the telescope was too large for the Vixen GP-DX in the end. I did use one of them with my 4" refractor however...

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The refractor does weigh about 11 to 12 lbs., so the two were well matched.

The Vixen 8.2-pounder was re-discovered several years later, then cleaned and re-painted. But I'm planning to strip it, and paint it another colour.
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  #53  
Old 07-09-2021, 11:11 PM
croweater (Richard)
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Looking good Alan.
Cheers, Richard
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  #54  
Old 08-09-2021, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croweater View Post
Looking good Alan.
Cheers, Richard
Thanks Richard. I do have high hopes for the outcome.
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  #55  
Old 05-11-2021, 01:51 PM
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Glamour shots of the completed mount...

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It's a whopper of a mount...

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The cinder-block on the wee porch is for scale.

By the by, I now have a wonderful solution for attaching the plastic covers, besides glue, onto the latitude-axis. My smaller diameter, thinner neodymium-magnets...

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Within the preceding images, the plastic covers for the latitude-axis are being held by the magnets, but it's only double-sided tape holding the magnets onto the covers' inner sides. The magnets are not touching the bolt, and will not need to in future. I will be attaching the magnets with other than tape, J-B Weld epoxy most likely, and spaced to where they will almost touch the head and tip of the bolt, but not quite.

The solution for the plastic covers pertains only to myself, as there is no real need to remove them in the first place. But I will tell you this: I noticed that the RA-axis was not quite set to my latitude, so I adjusted it, and O how smoothly it motioned; luxurious; again, like the thick door of bank-vault whilst closing.

Incidentally, when I had cut down and painted the pier-extension, several years ago, and painted it "safety blue", little did I know just how prophetic that choice of colour would be...

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  #56  
Old 06-11-2021, 09:05 PM
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I removed the taped magnets from the inner sides of the covers for the altitude/latitude-axis, and polished both...

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Aren't they lovely?

The cover printed with the degree-scale was fairly easy to pop off when I began this project, but not the blank one. As a result, the edge of the blank cover was damaged a little, with a scratch over onto the bevelled surface, indicated by the red arrow, and a rough edge in that same area. I first scraped the excess off of the scratch, "painted" it with acetone to smooth it, then polished the entire cover with Colgate® toothpaste, then Pond's® original cold-cream, and with my finger-tips only. The printed cover was polished with the cold-cream only. Both covers had some light and micro scratches in addition.

The relatively large scratch is still there on the blank cover, but noticed only via this macro-shot and a brilliant LED-light...

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It was quite noticeable before, just looking at it from two feet, more or less, distant.

The small, neodymium magnets are 1.5mm in thickness. The depth of the inner side of both caps, 5mm. The head of the bolt, in relation to the blank cover, protrudes about 1mm into same. The tip of the bolt, in relation to the printed cover, protrudes about 2mm into same.

Hence, the magnet for the blank cover will need a 2mm riser, and a 1mm riser for the magnet of the printed cover. Once the risers are integrated, there will be about 0.5mm of spacing between the magnets and the two ends of the bolt; again, not quite touching.

When I had gone out to remove the covers, with their magnets taped in still, the printed cover was harder to remove, as its magnet was closer to its end of the bolt, the tip.

At present, I'm thinking about making an aluminium spacer for the gap between the saddle and DEC-housing, to epoxy it onto the underside of the saddle's rim...

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That would help to keep debris from entering the gap over time.

Alas, I wouldn't have to think of these things if Synta had been "on the ball".

Last edited by Eldest_Sibling; 06-11-2021 at 09:26 PM.
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  #57  
Old 07-11-2021, 10:14 AM
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Fortunately, as fortune does favour the foolish, the inner sides of the covers each had a small moulding mark in the centre, however vague. I then took my mini drill-press with a carbide drill-bit and drilled them out slightly for a compass leg-tip to seat...

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Incidentally, the magnet for the blank cover can be off-centre, if one is cross-eyed, but the magnet for the printed cover must be dead-centre, thus requiring a right good rap onto the head.

The risers for the magnets, and from a 1mm-thick aluminium scrap-sheet...

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The risers were then cut out with "tin snips", and dressed...

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The two at far right will be epoxied together, and for the blank cover.

Last edited by Eldest_Sibling; 07-11-2021 at 10:43 AM.
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  #58  
Old 07-11-2021, 02:08 PM
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The magnets, and their risers, have been epoxied in place...

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The printed cover is on the left, and with only one riser...

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After the epoxy sets a bit, I may add more round the magnets and risers. I do have my mixing-palette with the unused epoxy, a "canary in the coal mine", and to test its setting over time.
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  #59  
Old 07-11-2021, 03:40 PM
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Additional epoxy was just added round the magnets and risers...

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...and for peace of mind.

I can still twirl the unused epoxy of the first application round the toothpick, and as I type, therefore this second application should bond well to the first.
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  #60  
Old 08-11-2021, 08:17 AM
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The covers for the latitude-axis gently snap into place...

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The slight spacing between the magnets and the bolt ensure that the covers are able to fully seat.

The RA-axis is aimed at Polaris, more or less, and ready to go with the 70mm f/12.9 achromat attached...

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The legs of the tripod are fully retracted, save the slight extensions required to level the mount, and per its built-in bubble-level. I expect I'll be keeping the legs retracted mostly, if not always. The lightest, four-pound counter-weight is attached, and the telescope balanced, more or less.

The revolutions amaze and astound. I'll be wanting slow-motion knobs instead.

No, you're not seeing things. I have a new observing-chair. It's much nicer than the old one...

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Although, I'll not be retiring it, just yet.

I'm going to need a two(to three?)-pound counter-weight. I can get an iOptron 2.2-pound, and a 13/16"(20.7mm) drill-bit to open it up. That would still be somewhat less than the Vixen two-pounder, but only somewhat. The Vixen is nigh insanely priced; two pounds of silver, it seems.

"Those interested in Vixen precision optical products can expect to see them available on Explore Scientific's website as soon as October of this year." - GlobeNewswire

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjaonLGgSN0
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