Thanks guys for the replies, sorry for the late response as it's been a bit hectic here the last few days.
Quote:
You need to match the flat to the lens and the orientation. It's easy for me since I mount the camera the same way every time and I've been using the same set of flats for multiple shoots. What I did is took a photo of the wall of my house through the telescope at a time and place where there was no light gradient (bathroom was the best since it's all white).
|
Chris,
Matching it to the lens I get but by orientation do you mean the way it's pointing?
If I do say an hour of shooting on the Polarie then the orientation has changed over that hour so it's best to leave it in that position once it's finished?
Also another what may be a silly question, when you use the wall is this with the lights switched on or in the dark?
Quote:
But if you prep your frames early like this rather than shooting right after or during your lightframes then they will do nothing for dust removal. Worse still if there's dust in your flats which isn't in your lights then you'll introduce nasty looking bright blotches in your images.
|
I was only taking these to see if I was on the right track more than anything so when it comes time to take some in anger I have a vague idea what to expect. Would you say I should be aiming for something more like the blue one than the grey one?
Quote:
Hi Jarrod, as chris has said twighlight is the best, however I have used computer monitor before by making the room dark and placing a piece of A4 copy paper over the monitor, which spreads the light more evenly. It's not ideal but it does work.
|
Hi Rex,
That is something else I can try, it makes a touch more sense than shooting the screen flat out.
I'm open to all ideas.
Definitely a lot of reading does say sky flats are better, the only thing that is a bit tricky I found that there is maybe not a huge window before stars start to show up, especially if shooting at 18mm.