Nice result Mark. Plenty of star colour to see. Watch your clipping in your processing, it looks like detail has suffered in both shadow and highlights, possibly due to an aggressive contrast adjustment but also could be your histogram is just too far to the left. There is definitely more to reveal, especially that you have over 3hrs of data.
Thanks Michael, unmodified dslr. A quick process in Startools(demo). I really need to experiment and learn more about Startools more rather than just sticking with the defaults.
Awesome shot mark, good details! Once you get the processing down, you'll have some stunning photos!
Few questions for ya:
1) Are you using a reducer with the RC6 or imaging at the native FL?
2) Are you using the stock focuser?
I remember when I had my RC6 & RC8, I used the Astro Physics CCDT67 2" Reducer and replaced the stock focuser with a moonlight focuser and am wondering if I need to bother upgrading those just yet or if I could make it work without them As I want to get another RC!
Thanks Jacob. I'm not using a reducer and I still have the stock focuser.
I'm not shooting for perfection, just presentable, and I'm pretty happy with what I'm getting. I bought a $700 scope that does a reasonable job without having to spends $100's on upgrades.
Mark,
Good effort there on a difficult target
Obviously seeing wasn’t the best as your focus looks ok but stars seem a tad bloated
Under darker skies with my 600D I used 3 minute subs at ISO800 on most objects to keep the noise floor down a bit. If seeing was really good I’d take a chance and push 5 minute subs. In Sydney under Bortle 8 my 600D wa limited to 90 sec subs no matter what object ( if the moon was full , forget it ) I think from memory the 700D at ISO800 to 1600 is the sweet spot for DR , mine was ISO800.
The cold air will assist some dark current with your DSLR but the sensor electronics need to get down to at least -5C internally to gain any real benefit
It might be 0C outside but pushing 5 min subs will still result in an internal sensor temp of around 15 to 18C.
That’s why the QE on most DSLR’s is only 30 to 40% whereas dedicated cooled Astro cameras are typically 80 to 90% QE
I used a 600D for a number of years and made my own cooler etc.. sensor probe never got below 18C during cold winter nights around 5C.
If you eventually buy a licence for Startools , I’m happy to offer some processing assistance if your interested
I’ve been using it for 5 years, currently using V1.7 ( V1.8 is the latest )
As Craig Stark always said SNR is the prime factor in AP
When I used my DSLR, noise was a big big problem so I used every avenue to try and mitigate it. If you achieve that , the signal will sort itself out
Strategies to mitigate noise in my 600D were -
Shorter subs ( dark site max 2 to 3 minute, LP site 60 sec to 90 sec )
Narrowband filters
Sweet spot ISO ( 800 )
Dark subtraction ( at least 40 to 60 dark frames taken after subs )
Dithering (dither based on image scale ratio - main camera to guide camera )
Stacking more data ( more the merrier)
“ Not a one shoe fits all scenario”
“ Sky conditions play a huge factor as well “
I usually pick a test object and try various approaches / settings to get the best outcome. It’s worth investing the time , your images will improve !!!
