#1  
Old 15-09-2021, 06:28 PM
DJT (David)
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Hmm, broken USB port STL11000m

Sighs heavily
Was too cavalier refocusing and had a cable snag which has damaged the USB port on my STL11000m

The result is that whilst power is fine, filter wheel does its thing, the drivers can’t be loaded so the CCD can’t connect etc.

My good friend Bill at SBIG Repairs (have sent a few things back for service and repairs over the years) can fix it but wondering if there is anyone local who could look at this.

Shipping and insurance is starting to make returns to the US uneconomical for this CCD given age.

Any ideas?
Many thanks
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  #2  
Old 16-09-2021, 03:44 AM
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mura_gadi (Steve)
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Hello,

Not sure if you just have the 1 USB cable there, if so, it sounds like you have just lost connection on a few pins. Make sure its not the cable itself, otherwise most PC repair shops should be able to check the socket solders etc. If its just the socket lifted you should be fine, if its the board damaged your not so good...



Steve
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  #3  
Old 16-09-2021, 05:22 PM
DJT (David)
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Hi Steve

Thanks for this. I think there’s a guy out here who can take a look. I tried a couple of cables so definitely the socket

Thanks
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Old 17-09-2021, 03:40 PM
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gregbradley
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Hi David,

I recently damaged a USB 2.0 port on my mount by accidentally tripping on a cable.

I found a good You Tube video on how to replace it. I bought a new soldering iron, some USB 2.0 vertical ports (most are horizontal this one was standing up). I bought some USB ports (I have quite a few if you want one, they are hard to find, ebay has them).

I removed the circuit board from the mount making marks where plugs had to go in a certain orientation.

I then desoldered the remains of the old port and cleaned up the 4 little metal holes in the circuit board plus the 2 side holes which take the tabs that hold the port in.. You heat the hole until the solder melts then ream it out clean using a pointed toothpick. Repeat until clean.

Then test fit the new port and make sure it fits. I then soldered the new port in with the fine soldering iron I got from Jaycar with fine wire solder wire plus some flux to make the solder take.

Took about half an hour and it works just like new.

I can probably find the you tube video that showed how to do it if you want.

I did replace a broken usb 2.0 port once before and messed it up by going too hard in removing the solder. I had to get a replacement circuit board which wasn't that expensive really. This time I had a fine soldering iron with a temperature control knob and I used a solder remover tool, like a little manual suction pump.

If this all sounds a bit daunting then its best to get a local electronics guy to do it as they use soldering irons all the time I imagine.

Greg.
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Old 17-09-2021, 06:02 PM
Pepper (Steve)
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Get gootwick. Gootwick is fine copper braid is the best for removing solder. Sucks it all up and leaves everything clean. Much much easier than a vacuum sucker.
Sit it on the solder you want to remove and press your iron on top.
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  #6  
Old 17-09-2021, 06:31 PM
DJT (David)
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Hi Greg
Thanks for the detailed response. Will thanks a look as well. How hard can it be!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley View Post
Hi David,

I recently damaged a USB 2.0 port on my mount by accidentally tripping on a cable.

I found a good You Tube video on how to replace it. I bought a new soldering iron, some USB 2.0 vertical ports (most are horizontal this one was standing up). I bought some USB ports (I have quite a few if you want one, they are hard to find, ebay has them).

I removed the circuit board from the mount making marks where plugs had to go in a certain orientation.

I then desoldered the remains of the old port and cleaned up the 4 little metal holes in the circuit board plus the 2 side holes which take the tabs that hold the port in.. You heat the hole until the solder melts then ream it out clean using a pointed toothpick. Repeat until clean.

Then test fit the new port and make sure it fits. I then soldered the new port in with the fine soldering iron I got from Jaycar with fine wire solder wire plus some flux to make the solder take.

Took about half an hour and it works just like new.

I can probably find the you tube video that showed how to do it if you want.

I did replace a broken usb 2.0 port once before and messed it up by going too hard in removing the solder. I had to get a replacement circuit board which wasn't that expensive really. This time I had a fine soldering iron with a temperature control knob and I used a solder remover tool, like a little manual suction pump.

If this all sounds a bit daunting then its best to get a local electronics guy to do it as they use soldering irons all the time I imagine.

Greg.
Hi Steve
Thanks for the heads up on Gootwick

Much appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepper View Post
Get gootwick. Gootwick is fine copper braid is the best for removing solder. Sucks it all up and leaves everything clean. Much much easier than a vacuum sucker.
Sit it on the solder you want to remove and press your iron on top.
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2021, 10:31 PM
DJT (David)
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Quick update
It did turn out to be a bit more difficult in the end so I packed it up and off it went back to SBIG taking the opportunity to get it serviced at the same time and I am expecting it back this week.

I ended up picking up an SBIG STT8300 with the self guiding filter wheel in the interim and have been really impressed with the build quality, the improved cooling and how clean the data is.

Looks like the move to CMOS can wait a little longer after all.

Cheers
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  #8  
Old 04-11-2021, 05:17 AM
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gregbradley
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That's good it is working out for you.

Using the 8300 CCD is hardly slumming. CMOS are fun and sensitive but they tend not to do stars well.

Go to Astrobin and you can pick out all the CCD images from the CMOS ones. They are the ones with colourful stars.

Greg.
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