Having trouble connecting to my QHY5 tonight for some reason. It's showing up as a new USB device and wanting to install drivers. Been working fine for ages, and I haven't changed anything that should affect it since last use.
I figured it could be corrupted driver, so uninstalled all QHY drivers and installed the QHY5 ASCOM 4 driver from the QHY5 website. I seem to remember this is the one, or do you also have to install the other QHY5 driver and update as well? (update - I did install all drivers, rebooted, still no worky)
Go through the hardware installation with both using the auto detect and also manually locate the drivers from the prog files/qhy/drivers path. Doesn't detect or work.
Troy, there are normally 2 drivers for qhy cameras. The first is the windows driver that lets windows detect and talk to the camera. That is the qhy winUSB driver.
Then you install the ascom driver to plug the camera into ascom. Did you get it going?
I did install both but still not working. Must admit I installed the ASCOM driver first, then the Windows driver and update. Do you reckon that's the problem? I seem to remember last time that I needed to shut down and restart Windows before it was all recognised. Did that this time but still not being picked up.
Do you have another computer at home? Put the winusb drivers on it and plug in the qhy5 and see if it detects and shows up in the control panel. Then you'll know if it's a pc issue or a camera problem.
Troy, QHY5 (and SSAG which are to all intents and purposes the same thing) sometimes lose their identity. If they don't tell Windows the right manufacturer and device ID Windows goes looking for new drivers.
Followed those instructions. Uncompressed driver.rar, edited the inf file, ran install.bat, connected the camera, plugged in camera, it did not install correctly.
Troy, I've been there several times. For some reason, some versions of the QHY5 circuit board do not have any write-protection on their CMOS chip and they tend to get scrambled. There is a routine for reflashng the CMOS and this has worked for me two out of three times. The third resulted in a dead camera. There is also a method of DIY modification to the circuit board which write-protects it. The way you tel which version of the circuit board you have required you to open the camera. You remove the sponge/foam protection around the sensor to reveal the surface-mounted components below. If you can't find the details let me know. Probably have it hee somewhere.
Peter
I've pulled the camera apart, and it looks like I have "the old version" in the PDF that Martin posted above, Figure 2 left hand image. See my attached photo. Question time.
If I make it write protected, can it be undone easily if, for example, a firmware update needs to happen in the future?
The english in the document isn't crystal clear to me, and I don't find electronics intuitive. Is it just a matter of soldering those 2 right hand pins together? It mentions separating the pin from the board a couple of times. Early on says not to, then the unclear photo lower (Fig 3) seems to say to cut the wire.
Is there a software method of achieving this without soldering?
If the writing correct vid etc you're referring to is Andrew's link above, I'm having trouble getting that to work. I've followed the instructions as I understand them, but every time I go to install new hardware wizard, it doesn't successfully install with incorrect software error message.
Troy - you definately have the old version. You need to disconnect the second pin on the right from the circuit board and connect this pin to the right pin. The other option is to cut the track leading from the pin on the circuit board. I suspect the first option will be easier to reverse in the future if you need to re-flash it.
If you need a hand with the soldering let me know however I assume the camera is still under factory warranty?
The easiest way to do it is to make a small pin header and then put a jumper on it to make the write protect and when you want to reflash you only have to take the jumper off.
You will need two headers, one to bridge the legs and one to bridge the cut off track so when flashing, the track gets the jumper and when write protecting, the jumper goes on the legs.