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  #21  
Old 19-08-2021, 02:25 AM
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Eldest_Sibling (Alan)
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The re-assembly of the DEC-axis begins...

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I greased the portion of the housing for the worm gear and the primary-washer throughout, filling that narrow channel all round to boot...

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I then inserted the primary-washer, then the worm-gear...

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It's difficult to see the washer, but it's there.

Next, the secondary-washer was placed atop the bottom of the worm-gear...

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The DEC-shaft was then combined with the housing.

Next, the needle-thrust bearing and its two washers were seated...

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...and secured...

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Unlike that of the RA-axis, the outside of the DEC worm-gear fits quite snugly within the housing, almost to the point of a vacuum being produced if separated. As a result, the worm-gear requires more force to rotate it, but that's just how it must be.

Lastly, the worm-assembly was attached, and adjusted.

Last edited by Eldest_Sibling; 19-08-2021 at 02:56 AM.
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  #22  
Old 19-08-2021, 03:29 AM
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I re-attached the DEC-axis to the RA-axis afterwards, but then I had to separate them again, and because of this part...

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...the telescope's saddle, and atop the DEC-axis. It only requires two bolts to secure it.

It turns out that the part of the saddle that overhangs the worm-assembly was pressing down on same, and interfering with the adjustment of the worm. Also, I could not spin the worm as easily, like I could with that of the RA-axis. In the end, I had to elevate the saddle...

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All surfaces to be joined were rough-sanded, then scored...

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J-B Weld steel-reinforced epoxy; with said epoxy in particular, perhaps with all epoxies, it's important to clean and de-grease the surfaces to be joined with 100% acetone. Never isopropyl-alcohol, but I do use the latter, 91%, for other...

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Much improved, however, once I battened down the saddle afterwards, the worm still became harder to twist, but not nearly as difficult as it was before. No matter, for I can easily twist the worm now, just not as easily as that of the RA-axis. I think that the threaded holes for the saddle's bolts were not tapped true and square at the factory. I'm thinking that once the bolts are tightened, which they must be, a bit of flexure or warping occurs in that area.

Had this issue cropped up with the RA-axis, I would've been heartbroken, livid rather, and on the phone with someone. The DEC worm will only be operated with a slow-motion cable anyway, never with a motor-drive. I have never had a need for, nor will ever need, a motor-drive for a DEC-axis.

I do know this: my old Vixen GP-DX, RIP, would not have had this problem.

Last edited by Eldest_Sibling; 19-08-2021 at 02:09 PM.
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  #23  
Old 19-08-2021, 04:03 AM
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The issue with the saddle, with the DEC-axis, is not the first time I've had trouble with a DEC-axis. With this Meade EQ-2, and what Meade termed their "Large Equatorial" within the manual...

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...it arrived with a wonky DEC-shaft...

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I contacted Meade, and they sent me a scrap mount-head from their refuse department, and under warranty. I may need the RA-housing from that as well.

It turns out that lightning does indeed strike twice in the same spot.

At long last, the axes of this EQ5-class mount were reunited...

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  #24  
Old 19-08-2021, 04:05 PM
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When the mount-head first arrived, I could pose it like this...

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The clamps, the clutches, and their parts were in their bag, in their box still. The reason I could pose it like that is because the axes were bound up, stiff, tight; the DEC-axis in particular, and now I know why. I suppose I could've worked the axes to where I could've used it like that, even, but there's no telling how much damage would've occurred as a result. But now, all is right as rain; well, not quite...

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What are those? They look like...buttons; wee, black, plastic "buttons". Mustn't tighten that brass bolt against the side of the aluminum worm-gear, and without a fail-safe. I know what they are, and as you might've guessed already, they're for it.

The black, plastic "buttons" are 5mm in thickness; and 9.4mm in diameter, but I wanted maximum coverage.

Glamour shot...

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...a brass rod, about a foot in length, and 10mm in diameter instead...

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No, I didn't have to force that rod into the hole. It actually wiggled from side to side afterwards.

No, not at all. I will not be substituting brass "buttons" for those of black-plastic. Rather, Synta substituted black-plastic for those of brass; bad, Synta.

When duplicating a metal article with wood, or plastic, the replacement is generally larger, to compensate, to match the strength and what-not of the metal article. Conversely, when duplicating a wooden or plastic article with metal, the reverse is true. You make it smaller; in this case, thinner, but not too thin, or else it might get squashed a lot sooner, broken up, and then I'd have a mess to clean up.

Many years ago, in upstate New York, a gentleman was making miniature table-saws, for sale. His company was called "Preac", and, unfortunately, is no longer in business. This is my own Preac, and with the largest table-option offered at the time...

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The standard table-option was half that.

With brass being non-ferrous, non-iron or non-steel, I can saw that, too, and with that.
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  #25  
Old 19-08-2021, 07:40 PM
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The fence of the saw was set to a frog's hair over 4mm, 4.1mm to be exact after sanding and polishing...

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The saw had to be turned off for the taking of that image. I rotated the brass rod as I sawed. Had I been in my teens when doing this, I would've attempted to saw straight through the rod. Also, that's from when I made the pair at 5.5mm, and before that, a pair at 6mm. I did not follow the "rule" for those when transitioning from plastic to metal. It was trial and error, throughout this renovation, but not in too terribly many instances.

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Glamour shot...

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Another reason not to go past the thickness of the originals, of plastic, is to ensure that the clamping-levers will catch their stops on the housing...

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Last edited by Eldest_Sibling; 19-08-2021 at 07:58 PM.
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  #26  
Old 19-08-2021, 09:00 PM
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With the 4.1mm brass "button" in place, the clamp-lever of the DEC-axis comes awfully close to its fitting, but to no ill effect; in its hard-locked position...

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I could've left either the 5.5mm or 6mm in place, for that matter.

The clamp-lever for the RA-axis, however, does not draw as close to its fitting; good, that. But there was another issue to rear its ugly head: when unlocked, the RA clamp-lever rocked back and forth; slop. The threaded hole was tapped just a bit too large for the brass clamp-bolt. I swapped bolts even; no change.

I took a shim of aluminum sheeting, 0.005" thick, and lined the threaded hole from top to bottom and halfway round. The shim does not extend down to contact the brass "button", just above rather. The shim was pressed into the threads, as best I could, then the clamp-bolt was screwed in, then removed. The shim was then conformed to the threads. Next, I greased the hole throughout, and reinserted the clamp-bolt: no more slop, not in the slightest...

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It just so happens that I'm not the only victim of Synta's sloppiness. A fellow astronomer, elsewhere, has a "Sky-Watcher" EQ-5, a Synta mount, just like my own, but with a go-to system integrated, and the same system that I could install, but I can't use a go-to mount; too many trees. The fellow is having the exact same issue with his RA-clamp. I then described and illustrated the solution for him. Hopefully, it will work for him as it has for me.

The clamps for the axes are completed...

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  #27  
Old 19-08-2021, 11:01 PM
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Here, I have the mount-head attached to the tripod's hub, thereby to the tripod itself, with the DEC-axis upside-down, and to determine what to do about the DEC setting-circle assembly...

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The original washers for the DEC setting-circle...

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...history.

For replacements, I chose the thinner, 0.008" thick bronze...

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The rotation is much improved.

I know, and you probably know, too, that the setting-circles for this mount-head, and many others, are next to useless, or utterly useless...

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Still, if I ever have a mind to attempt to use them to try to find something, then I want them in good order.
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  #28  
Old 19-08-2021, 11:46 PM
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For US$150, I knew I wasn't going to get a polar-scope with this mount-head. I went to my room to look for the polar-scope that I bought for my CG-4, both back in 2012. But, alas, it would not fit...

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The polar-scope for EQ3-class mounts screws onto the RA-shaft, whilst that for EQ5-class mounts screws into the RA-shaft. There has been some confusion online as to that distinction, I've read.

So, I ordered an Astromania polar-scope for an EQ-5...

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...sold by Astromania, and shipped by Amazon. It was advertised as having the new-style reticle...

https://i.imgur.com/ttgdJpL.png

...and with emphasis on Polaris' hourly positions round the North Celestial Pole(NCP).

My old Celestron polar-scope has the old reticle...

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I lifted the new Astromania polar-scope up to my eye, aimed it towards a light-source, and saw this...

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...the exact, same, old, reticle.

What would you do upon seeing that?

Last edited by Eldest_Sibling; 20-08-2021 at 12:08 AM.
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  #29  
Old 20-08-2021, 05:39 AM
croweater (Richard)
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Alan maybe it is easier to line up the asterisms than using the reticle anyway. I don't really know. We down south have to use octans and I haven't tried my new Heq5 yet.
Cheers, Richard

Last edited by croweater; 20-08-2021 at 05:40 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #30  
Old 20-08-2021, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldest_Sibling View Post
...
What would you do upon seeing that?
Print my own reticle on transparency...
Doesn't look pretty, but works.

Long time ago (in the times of film photography) I photographed the drawing on a piece of graphic high contrast film.
Or, you can engrave it on a piece of polycarbonate or plexi-glass (perspex).
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  #31  
Old 20-08-2021, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
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Alan maybe it is easier to line up the asterisms than using the reticle anyway. I don't really know. We down south have to use octans and I haven't tried my new Heq5 yet.
Cheers, Richard
The old reticle's asterisms are helpful, no doubt, including that of Octans.

Incidentally, your HEQ-5 will work with my older, Celestron CG-4(EQ-3) polar-scope. If I lived next door I'd give it to you.
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  #32  
Old 20-08-2021, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bojan View Post
Print my own reticle on transparency...
Doesn't look pretty, but works.

Long time ago (in the times of film photography) I photographed the drawing on a piece of graphic high contrast film.
Or, you can engrave it on a piece of polycarbonate or plexi-glass (perspex).
It looks rather neat, fine.

Have you thought about mass-producing the reticle? Are there no commercial polar-scopes specific for the southern hemisphere? I've been wondering about the latter.
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  #33  
Old 20-08-2021, 04:54 PM
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I contacted Astromania via e-mail on August 8th, 2021. On the following day, August 9th, I received this reply...

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I had been waiting for the last ten days or so for it to arrive.

It was a 50/50 chance prior to opening the box. It was either going to be the good, new reticle...or the bad, old reticle...

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...the new reticle. I now have two, new, differing polar-scopes for this mount.

https://www.avalon-instruments.com/s...er-polar-scope

"The new Skywatcher Polarscope only has the Octans constellation on it."

No, not true.

That was very good of Astromania to correct their error, but now I've ruined the chances of others, elsewhere, in getting one with the newer reticle, and for a song, a dance...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXCwlO2jnYU

I've replied to Astromania, to thank them, but also to urge them to replace the part boxes or trays on the factory-floors overseas that, collectively, contain perhaps a staggering surplus of the older reticles.
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  #34  
Old 20-08-2021, 06:55 PM
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The time-dial of the RA setting-circle assembly; glamour shot...

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As with the first, purchased polar-scope, with the old reticle, once this free, replacement polar-scope, with the newer reticle, is installed, there is, and much to my chagrin, a 3mm wide gap, still, between the RA-time dial and the polar-scope's date-dial...

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With the gap, the RA date-dial will slide out of its centring well, and towards the date-dial of the polar-scope, then to oscillate round, wonkily.

I can't make any bronze washers for it, to compensate for the gap, as they would be exposed. Then, multiple washers would simply "junk up" the assembly with too many parts.

No, all it needs is a little special something to fill in the gap. I have a sheet of this aluminum left over, 1mm in thickness, and from the renovation of the latitude/altitude axis. It would be a shame, and a waste, to set it aside...

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...but I can only make two 1mm fillers out of that unused sheet. I need one more, for a thickness of 3mm, then all three J-B Weld -ed together into one. So, I re-ordered the same thickness, same amount of aluminum, but as one sheet. Strangely, it was a few cents cheaper that way, as one sheet instead of two. It was also half the cost of a 3mm-thick sheet. In addition, I don't mind the extra work.

That's where I'm at, at a standstill, at the date and time of this posting, and waiting for the USPS to deliver the goods.

Incidentally, this is a polar-scope holder that came with the mount-head...

Obverse, and with a broken screw...

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Reverse, and with three plastic-washers...

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Note the triad of cushioning pads.

It was once useful, and for a polar-scope that is no longer extant...

https://i.imgur.com/y3njHgv.jpg

...that one, or other.

I'd like to see what sort of reticle that one had.
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  #35  
Old 25-08-2021, 10:50 PM
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The aluminum for the gap-filler is currently, "Out for Delivery, Expected Delivery by 3:45pm".

I used to get stuff from the west coast in two days, three days tops. Ah, those were the good ole days. It had been stuck out there for almost ten days, this time round. It may be improving, the service, but I'm not holding my breath.

But once it states that it's out for delivery, it's a sure thing.

I'm...so...ex...ci...ted.
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  #36  
Old 26-08-2021, 09:50 PM
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The aluminum arrived yesterday...

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...and brimming with hope, promise, and merry respites.
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  #37  
Old 28-08-2021, 05:02 AM
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The two outer layers of the gap-filler for the polar-scope were sanded in several directions with 100-grit paper, then washed...

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The centre layer was sanded on both sides; glamour shot...

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All three will be J-B Weld-ed together.
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  #38  
Old 28-08-2021, 06:23 AM
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Now to wait.
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  #39  
Old 28-08-2021, 03:33 PM
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Not a glamour shot...

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Only one side will be described, then all three layers sawn in unison.
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  #40  
Old 28-08-2021, 04:35 PM
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That's all I need out from that mess...

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