Tarantula Neb (NGC 2070) with DSLR settings.

[Drac0 (Mark)]

Hi all.


Looking at trying to hit the Tarantula Nebula with an unmodified Canon DSLR on a 102mm f/7 refractor and was wondering if anyone had setting tips.Was thinking maybe LOTS of 3 min subs at ISO 1600. Thoughts?


Cheers,
Mark

[Startrek (Martin)]

Need a few more details to advise on ISO and sub lengths
Canon DSLR model ( sweet spot for highest dynamic range is different on certain models ) ?
Sky Glow / Light Pollution in your location - Bortle number ?
Operating environment- your location , warm nights , cool nights ?
Dithering - does your capture software support dithering ( an absolute must for DSLR’s or in fact any camera ) ?
Darks - an absolute must for DSLR’s
Flats - optional depending on scope / image field
Bias - optional
Dark Flats - optional

Cheers
Martin

PS I used a Canon 600D for 3 years in my 6” and 8” newts capturing galaxies , globs , Nebula etc.. from Bortle 8 to Bortle 3 skies

[Drac0 (Mark)]

Hi Martin, thanks for the reply.


Canon 70D - sweet spot is around ISO 1600 I believe.

If I shoot from home as intended Bortle 5
South Coast NSW (Nowra)
Yes to dithering, guiding, etc, all set to go - PHD2 & ATP.
Yes to darks, maybe flats too - no bias or dark flats.

Looking at doing it over several nights of 30 to 40 lights each (if it ever clear skies). Have an Astromik CLS filter but not sure it's worth putting it on here.


Cheers,
Mark

[Startrek (Martin)]

Mark,
Yes, best dynamic range is ISO1600 (9.4) on the 70D
If imaging wide band RGB ( no filters ) during the new moon period ( now ) forget the CLS filter as your skies are quite dark at Bortle 5 ( I used a CLS filter for 3 months and stopped using it under Bortle 8 Sydney as it reduced detail and it was difficult to get the white balance right )
My recommendation would be 90 sec to 120 sec subs to keep the read noise down and capture at least 3 hours or more on the object ( the Tarantula is quite a bright object especially at the core )
Dither each sub , APT dither 1 to 2 ( Random dither in PHD2 )
Take your Conventional Darks ( end cap on scope ) after your lights whilst cameras temp is stable ( 30 to 40 darks ) Disable internal noise reduction Darks in camera.
See how that turns out
DSLR’s run so warm 25 to 35 deg C , that pushing longer subs just increase noise not signal , lucky imaging with shorter subs can work in your favour
I shot most objects between 60 sec and 180 sec depending on location
Sydney Bortle 8 was 60 sec to 90 sec subs ( 6” f6 newt )
South Coast Bortle 3 was 120 sec to 180 sec subs ( 6” f6 newt and 8” f5 newt )

Here’s my Canon settings I used for Astrophotography on the 600D

Canon EOS DSLR Astro settings with for prime focus with telescope ( Canon camera’s manufacture dated 2004 to 2014)

Exposure - set to Manual
Autofocus - off or Manual
Grid display - off
Aspect ratio - 3:2
Screen colour - 1 or preferred
ISO - sweet spot is 800
Aperture - aperture is fixed through telescope
Shutter speed - Bulb with remote shutter release
White Balance - set to auto white balance AWB ( if Camera has been Astro modded you have to set a “custom” white balance )
Drive - set to single shooting
Colour Space - set to RGB
Image file - set to Raw + JPEG
Image review - turn off
Metering mode - set to Evaluative
Exposure compensation - set to 0
LCD Auto off - set to disable
Live View Shoot Function - enable
Live View Exposure Sim - enable

Custom functions -
ISO expansion - set to off
Exposure level increments - set to 1/3 stop
Long Exposure Noise reduction - off if shooting darks
High ISO speed noise reduction - off if shooting darks
Highlight Tone Priority - disable
Auto Lighting Optimiser - disable
Auto focus assist beam firing - disable
Auto power off - set to 2 minutes
Auto rotate - off
Built in flash - turn off
Red eye reduction - turn off
Dust delete data - set to none or turn off

Picture Style -
Sharpness 0 or halfway on slider
Contrast 0 or halfway on slider
Saturation 0 or halfway on slider
Colour tone 0 or halfway on slider
Mirror lock up - disable

Note : some older Canon cameras may not have some of the above settings so ignore them

Hope the above helps in some way
Cheers
Martin

[Drac0 (Mark)]

Thanks Martin.


Had most of those settings, though the other night I forgot to turn off Auto Rotate & ended up having half at 3:2 & half 2:3. Tried the CLS the other night & wasn't happy with it - don't think it helped much & didn't like the blue hue it gave everything and as you say, getting the white balance right was a pain.


Think I'll start with 90 secs at ISO 1600 and see how it goes and change things as needed.


Thanks again.
Mark

[Startrek (Martin)]

Mark,
Happy to help (where I can , as I only use newts )
For stacking I use Deep Sky Stacker ( it just works )
For post processing I exclusively use Startools which is brilliant, been using it for nearly 4 years ,firstly with my Canon 600D and now with my ZWOASI2600MC
Ivo has developed some great tools for DSLR/ OSC Narrowband image processing

Cheers
Martin

[Drac0 (Mark)]

Using DSS too. Alex pointed me to StarTools the other day so I'm testing out the trial right now & it looks good.


Cheers,
Mark.

Originally Posted by Startrek

Mark,
Happy to help (where I can , as I only use newts )
For stacking I use Deep Sky Stacker ( it just works )
For post processing I exclusively use Startools which is brilliant, been using it for nearly 4 years ,firstly with my Canon 600D and now with my ZWOASI2600MC
Ivo has developed some great tools for DSLR/ OSC Narrowband image processing

Cheers
Martin