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Old 14-11-2023, 09:25 AM
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AlexN
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Show me your DIY power distribution boxes.

Hey all.

I'm going to be building myself a power distribution box in the coming weeks, and just calling out for any inspiration. Show me what you've made to power your gear!

My plan is to have a distro box, that has an Andersen plug 12v DC input, then I need to have a 15v out for my mount, and a series of fused 12v outputs for the MiniPC, powered USB ports.

The mount is an annoying point unfortunately. The Losmandy mounts are well known for not being happy under 15v... They will work on 12v, but they are happiest between 15 and 17v. I have a 12v to 15v step-up converter that will be turning the 12~13v input into 15v. So in theory, that should be covered.

I'll probably be using Andersen powerpole connectors for each of the 15v and 12v outputs on the box. Mount and Camera will be individually fused, the rest of the accessories will be running from a single 5A fused line, that will split at the telescope, as everything sits on top of the scope.

The reason for the Andersen 12v input, is so that I can use the same distribution box at home and in the field, simply connecting my 12v 30A regulated AC-DC power supply at home to the distribution box, or into the 200AH solar charged battery in my van in the field.

My goal is to have it so that apart from where the distribution box is getting its input, the rig is identical no matter where I am. If I have mains, I'll use my mains power supply, if I don't, say if I go for a dark sky camping trip or something like that, I can easily just run a lead out of my van and into the distribution box.

If anyone has thoughts, suggestions or concerns, I'd love to hear them, as this project will be kicking off in the next 10 days or so. I am tired of running a power board and having a transformer for the camera, pc, mount, powered usb hub with power leads going everywhere... but more than that, I'm tired of plugging all this gear into a pure sinewave inverter and going from 12v DC in the battery, to 240v AC in the inverter, then converting everything back down to 12v via the gears individual transformers.

Cheers.
Alex.
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Old 16-11-2023, 04:32 PM
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The_bluester (Paul)
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My main suggestion is not to use Andersons for everything. I would pick a different connector for the 15V to make sure that you can't inadvertently hook 15V up to a 12V device. Maybe a lockable Merit connector if that is not too big?

I have seen people use the EC plugs as you might find in electric model aircraft (And the Pegasus Ultimate Powerbox uses one for it's input) but I personally don't like those connectors as they can be difficult to unplug and they are not that easy to insulate well if you make your own cables. I would love to see them use something like a Deutch DT connector and I have used them in my power boxes (Not quite the same setup as you are looking for so I have not put up an image) and the flanged type are hard to flush mount.
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Old 16-11-2023, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_bluester View Post
My main suggestion is not to use Andersons for everything. I would pick a different connector for the 15V to make sure that you can't inadvertently hook 15V up to a 12V device. Maybe a lockable Merit connector if that is not too big?

I have seen people use the EC plugs as you might find in electric model aircraft (And the Pegasus Ultimate Powerbox uses one for it's input) but I personally don't like those connectors as they can be difficult to unplug and they are not that easy to insulate well if you make your own cables. I would love to see them use something like a Deutch DT connector and I have used them in my power boxes (Not quite the same setup as you are looking for so I have not put up an image) and the flanged type are hard to flush mount.
This is a great point, and actually, not something that had really crossed my mind, however, I do have the simple option of using the plug that is native to my telescope mount (DIN4) as it's the only DIN4 in the whole collection of cables...

Yes, I might do that...

I moved away from anderson powerpoles actually too in the past 24hrs, as they are actually quite expensive...

I'll be running everything off 5.5mm x 2.1mm bulkhead connectors in the powerbox, and using a couple of splitters at the telescope end.

So output side of the power distribution box will be
1. Din4->Din4 for the mount,
2. 5.5x2.1 -> 5.5x2.03 locking connector for the Camera/CFW
3. 5.5x2.1 -> 5.5x2.1 Y Splitter to run the microPC and USB Hub.

only cable 2 and 3 need to go right up to the telescope, as the mounts power connector is separate from the mount head itself, so I will put them both into a sheath so they are essentially one cable.

I always run my USB away from power to avoid interference, and as the USB Hub and the PC are mounted above the scope, this is a simple proposition.

I have a big list of parts to buy from JayCar, with only 2 particular connectors having to be purchased online as they are not common (DIN4 plugs, I need 2 Males and a Female, and the 5.5x2.03mm locking connector... Sure, I could cut the lead on the SBIG transformer, but I will avoid that if I can)

Thanks for your input mate!
Always good to have a sounding board!
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Old 16-11-2023, 06:52 PM
Ramius (Bill)
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Hi
Strongly support different plugs for different voltages (I run 5 12 & 15v). If not fully independent plug types at least colour code them.


For peace of mind I added volt/amp meters to each circuit.

Cheers
Bill
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Old 21-11-2023, 09:39 AM
Rainsey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramius View Post
Hi
Strongly support different plugs for different voltages (I run 5 12 & 15v). If not fully independent plug types at least colour code them.


For peace of mind I added volt/amp meters to each circuit.

Cheers
Bill
Just out there, but you can get Andersons that are keys different, i.e. you cant plug a red into a grey for example. I use this solution for my regulated and un regulated solar.


So for example you could use the grey for 12v and the red for 15.



Cheers


Rainsey
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