Well just grabbed a 240x120mm rad, a nice waterblock and pump/res combo. If this doesn't keep the TEC cooler nothing will lol. Should rock up next week but still waiting on the enclouser which i had to get from the uk
The encloser got here today and all i can say is wow. It has a very nice rubber gasket for a seal and also rubbers for the screws. Unlike most alloy cases which way a ton this thing is super light and really feels like aluminum. The size is excellent and can fit my 1100D in it by just removing the eye veiwfinder rubber on the top of the body, this leaves me lots of room to play with Anyhow will get started this weekend fitting the 1100D into the encloser, need to get a astronomic mc clear once this is done to finish it off
240x120 xspc rx240 rad rocked up and the pump and block for the water cooling of the TEC today w00t. The blocks all copper and weighs a bit so i might grab a cheap alloy block instead, got all this second hand for $70 to which was sweet.
I think i killed my 1100D guys I removed flash and tryed to strip down the top housing, then seen it was to complex. I stuck the sensor back in after loosing to may shims lol and the mainboard. I then stuck a battery in it only to find there was no power I will get some pics up on the weekend, all i can put it down to now is a bit of metal that came loose from the top housing and its involvement in the no power issue. I will now strip it down with out fear as to find the course. At worst case i guess i have some great spare parts and will just have to grab another one. If i can't get it going then i can't pull down another one for TEC cooling and will just have to use a cooler box.
OM*G!!! So i went to get a 3rd camera to mod it, after the mod dead again. I was thinking it was the top fiber ribbon cable H that had some damage (after 4 tear downs and re-assembles) and told Forgey she can pull down the camera for parts and ill use them to fix the 1100D i broke. After she stripped it down i used the top section of the camera replace the one on the modded, and no go again. So then i also re-soldered the flash wires on and no go again BAH!!!! I was about to give up as everything was connected fine and grounded out ect (4hrs later from modding a new 1100D) then i though might as well just stick the battery door on as well and try for laughs. Well powered on and bam going, cut flash wires and bam again going still. What cannon have done is added a switch to the battery door to stop power on unless shut, thanks cannon for $300 of parts But now the extreme mod lives on and more to come
So after some testing for cooling i've ditch the water as its really not needed for the 33w TEC i'am using. I've just done some testing with a few heatsink fan units to find the best to used. After testing some heavy CPU coolers i came across a dead (well has BSOD's with media playback) ATI/AMD HIS 5750. The unit weighs next to nothing maybe less then 100grams, and boy does it do a nice job and will suit my project perfectly. I havent tested with the fan at 5volt yet but i know its going to be fine already. Here is some images, remember warm air is being forced onto the tec and still look at that ice wow
Hmm whats in that bag your thinking, well a full 1100D in parts hahaha. As you can see i have to keep the top section due to the rotary switch for manaul selection and on/off, why because i just don't have the gear to work with such fine pcb tracks to bypass it. Though as you can see on the spare top i have stripped the shot button and flash off to make the camera more low profile. What i will do is get a clip-in clear and seal the sensor chamber and see how that goes first, its not ideal because air can get by the EF-S mount clips, maybe i could seal them with a fine film tape externally though. I Really want to keep that EF-S mount system at this stage and well i have a spare everything and nothing to loose lol. I next plan to cut the whole for the EF-S mount into the case and then make mounting studs.
Camera EF-S whole is cut, also made up the heatsink unit for the TEC. I have tapped the heatsink with 6mm thread, then drilled through the housing which will also act as a heatsink and anti dew forming unit. Next goes the tec then the cold plate. The cold plate will have cork bushes and top washers inside the 8mm holes, this keeps the heat off the cold plate from the 6mm hex heads. Next goes a brass washer then spring then brass washers, followed lastly by the 6mm thread hex head bolts. This puts force down on the tec to gain maximum heat transfere without the risk of cracking or breaking the TEC. Heres some pics which might put the story together better then words.
This is an on going project and don't expect completion straight away, i just do this when i have spare time, which isn't often enough lol.
Hi Jay in your original post you mentioned you had to order special tools off ebay to do the job. What were they? I have a astrodon filter ready to go in my 600D, but I don't wanna tear into it until I have the right tools
Cheers
Chris
Hi Jay in your original post you mentioned you had to order special tools off ebay to do the job. What were they? I have a astrodon filter ready to go in my 600D, but I don't wanna tear into it until I have the right tools
Cheers
Chris
The main tools are the 00 and 000 phillips, get them from jaycar for $3.50 http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TD2065 . I used the biggest 1 of the 2 on all the screws mostly, also get a cheap jewelers screw driver kit from your $2 that has a pointed piece as its great for prying open the locking cams, I used it as well for the cables though tooth picks are a safer option. Grab some markable zip baggies and place you parts in them to aid dust, damage and mark them on your first run with the step number so you know what goes where in case.
GL with it, though its pretty hard to screw up and post a thread so other can use it for help in the future to
Excellent, thanks for that! I think i'll swing by Jaycar this week now.
Also I've read on some pages that they use rubber tipped tweasers? Think it's necessary?
Excellent, thanks for that! I think i'll swing by Jaycar this week now.
Also I've read on some pages that they use rubber tipped tweasers? Think it's necessary?
Not worth the hassle, i found a good small pair of pointy nose pliers best for the power connectors, though they maybe useful for the fiber optic cable from the flash where it goes into the motherboards optic connector. A pc repair kit with a grappler for small screws can help out alot with non magnetic tip drivers. It's all quite easy to do its just the initial fear the puts so many people off, just take your time and don't go tearing things off before making sure ribbon cables are free, you don't want to break them.
Camera EF-S whole is cut, also made up the heatsink unit for the TEC. I have tapped the heatsink with 6mm thread, then drilled through the housing which will also act as a heatsink and anti dew forming unit. Next goes the tec then the cold plate. The cold plate will have cork bushes and top washers inside the 8mm holes, this keeps the heat off the cold plate from the 6mm hex heads. Next goes a brass washer then spring then brass washers, followed lastly by the 6mm thread hex head bolts. This puts force down on the tec to gain maximum heat transfere without the risk of cracking or breaking the TEC. Heres some pics which might put the story together better then words.
This is an on going project and don't expect completion straight away, i just do this when i have spare time, which isn't often enough lol.
Using the case as part of the heat sink and as a condensation collector is a clever idea, Jay. Sounds like you have given this mod a lot of thought. It seems odd to attract moisture, but it actually keeps it away from sensitive electronics.
I've been working away on the electronics side and have what I think is a 'quiet' PWM set up. There is no such thing as quiet PWM , but working through the problem with the Arduino guys I think I'm close to reducing interference in the TEC leads and smoothing out inductance and capacitance issues with the MOSFET switching off. Just for interest I've posted a screenshot of the project so far.
Using the case as part of the heat sink and as a condensation collector is a clever idea, Jay. Sounds like you have given this mod a lot of thought. It seems odd to attract moisture, but it actually keeps it away from sensitive electronics.
I've been working away on the electronics side and have what I think is a 'quiet' PWM set up. There is no such thing as quiet PWM , but working through the problem with the Arduino guys I think I'm close to reducing interference in the TEC leads and smoothing out inductance and capacitance issues with the MOSFET switching off. Just for interest I've posted a screenshot of the project so far.
Note: The TEC is the 17.9R (R3) resistor.
Can't wait to get it finished, just haven't had the time though The mods more a cds rip off now haha, so i can't take any glory for it besides figuring out how to strip un-needed camera parts off ect. I did notice that cds are now using a demister on there filters in the style of that used on a common car. By running a resistive film around the filters edges it can keep dew at bay with out the need for a sealed enclosure atleast from the sensor out. This also beats the hell out of using nic wire and risistors due to the wire melting plastic housing, the size of common used resistors and there ineffectivness of not making optimal contact and heat transfer with the filter. I would really love to see what i can pull off with some conductive paint and insulation like epoxy paint or liquid elec tape over it. Maybe ill get around to it one day when i have the time, lol sucks when there just do much to do and not enough time.
That ooks pretty sweet, so osc's are your mosfets, what about using some more for smoothing out the ripple even more? That looks like its doing a great job This was a great google http://www.proaxis.com/~wagnerj/PWMf...%20Filters.pdf may help out but no doubt your problem read books the size of bibles on it now haha.
Thanks Jay. That's a great resource. Will read from top to bottom. The resistive film sounds just the ticket. Must look it up.
The problem with switching mosfets is avoiding linear inputs which cause overheating, so your stuck with the pulses. Although within limits that's not been my experience. Linear drives are less efficient but more desirable. Working on one right now.
Really the best method is proportional voltage control ...that is apply a linear voltage proportional to the temperature (cooling) your require and vary this to keep at this temperature. A PID system.
However this is not easy to do and it's much easier to use PWM. TETech has some primers and info on TEC cooling and calculators.
Another simple method is to use a simple fleabay thermostat controller for ~$20. Yes...crude but it managed to keep my DSLR cooler box and DSLR sensor temp to within +/- 1 degree C. Even I was surprised at this.
Cheers for the info brendan, just going all out to start with unless dew and condensation become an issue, though using a sealed unit it shouldn't. Have read a stack of tec papers and have found the overclocking community has more then a wealth of information Thats a great link and thanks, will have to chase through my books marks even have one to work out specs from an unknown TEC
Thinking outside the box, proportional voltage to a TEC or heater, could be controlled by attaching a stepper motor to a potentiometer shaft, controlling with a microprocessor. A little calibration may be required, but once the correct position is set, fine control could be achieved by dithering either side of set point. Changes in energy demands, due to ambient temperature could be programmed as well. I dont think this would be too difficult to do with an Arduino, for instance.
Anyhow will get started this weekend fitting the 1100D into the encloser, need to get a astronomic mc clear once this is done to finish it off 
Maybe ill get around to it one day when i have the time, lol sucks when there just do much to do and not enough time.
