Preventing Stuck Adapters

[Cloudyagain (Neale)]

Recently there was a post with suggestions for preventing bound threads on adapters etc. Could someone please direct me to that post as I can't seem to find it.

Thanks in advance,
Neale.

[bert (Brett)]

Don't know the thread.... Sorry

But what I found was the best to get adapters apart was 2x strap type oil filter removers. Since I have used this method, no more stilson or vice marks for me!

[bojan]

Originally Posted by bert

.... best to get adapters apart was 2x strap type oil filter removers...

from Bunnings.. and a drop of turpentine in the thread.

[JohnH]

I have used WD40 and a little heating/cooling (boiling water). Some PTFE tape can prevent binding...

[Merlin66 (Ken)]

To minimise the chance of threaded adaptors binding, wipe a SMALL dab of boot polish (your choice of colour ;-) ) on the threads.
This will not melt or out-gas preventing problems with optics etc.
WD40, vaseline, grease etc are NOT recommended.

[rat156]

Has anyone tried graphite? You could simply run a pencil around the thread...

I haven't but have one adapter that squeals loudly when you turn the threads.

+1 for the strap wrenches from Bunnings, I got a pair, one largish, one small, they have found a myriad of uses around the home, stuck jar lids especially.

Cheers
Stuart

[JohnH]

Originally Posted by Merlin66

To minimise the chance of threaded adaptors binding, wipe a SMALL dab of boot polish (your choice of colour ;-) ) on the threads.
This will not melt or out-gas preventing problems with optics etc.
WD40, vaseline, grease etc are NOT recommended.

To be clear - I was advocating WD40 only for releasing already bound adapters - assuming they can be isolated and are not attached to the scope/ccd. Not at all to be used near optics.

For prevention my preference is still PTFE tape but it can be tricky to apply if the threads in question are low profile.

[bojan]

Originally Posted by rat156

Has anyone tried graphite?

Graphite is excellent lubricant
However, the pencil must be very soft, preferably 9B.

[multiweb (Marc)]

Originally Posted by rat156

Has anyone tried graphite? You could simply run a pencil around the thread...

I haven't but have one adapter that squeals loudly when you turn the threads.

Clever. Never though about it. Will try it with the hyperstar thread. It's conical and there is a lot of contact surface involved. Prone to seize very easily and the secondary cell is usually much looser.

[bojan]

Also, talcum (baby powder) could be used as lubricant (especially tight for plastic parts).

[Barrykgerdes]

The most important thing to watch when using parts made from aluminium with screw threads is to ensure that the thread is scrupiously clean before screwing together. Any grit or rough spots that are in the thread can quickly bite into the metal and gouge pieces of metal that will quickly cause terminal failure of the parts.

Other than that I use a thin smear of any light lubricant on the thread remember also that a lubricant will also tend to trap dirt and may end up worse than none at all.

Barry

[rally]

Neale,

Thread preparation can help a lot.
We are all in a hurry to assemble our new gear when we get it - but an extra few minutes at the start can save you hours or days later.

As has been mentioned keep it clean, but also make sure its freely moving when its being threaded on.

Some threads can be cut poorly - either speeds and feeds not correctly optimised for the particular material, insufficient or inapprorpriate lubricant used when cutting or cutting tools that arent sharp enough or have the wrong geometry for the material being cut - and so the surface roughness of the two threads causes binding and worse can cause galling.
Cutting metal is a actually a shearing and tearing process - the idea is to tear it as nicely as possible !
With the least amount of additional damage and secondary burring.

By screwing up the two sides with either a small amount of a suitable lubricant or even some fine grinding paste (eg the abrasive brasso) you can polish of the roughest surfaces and ideally polish the two surfaces so they slide against each other with no extra resistance.
You will want to thoroughly wash off any abrasive polish off completely before putting into use.

You can usually tell if the threads arent well matched or good quality - they feel either scratchy or resist being tightened up - you want them to feel slippery smooth if possible and virtually silent.

Avoid using clamps, vices, multigrips etc - once the threads or the material body has been damaged or otherwise forced out of round or with dents in it - you have a much bigger problem than a locked thread.

Even the tiniest amount of lubricant can make all the difference.
Always wipe off the excess - one drop can be too much inn some cases and it will creep over the surfaces over time - minutes, days, months years and eventually creep or evaporate and recondense over the lens optics etc.

Cheers

Rally

[Cloudyagain (Neale)]

Thanks everyone.

The culprit was a 3mm T thread extension on the front of my camera. I took the "T block" off the front of the camera and then carefully managed to get the adapter off with pliers and rubber over the jaws. I want to prevent this again and do not want anything here that might ultimately end up in the camera eg. oily stuff.

Ken, it was your boot polish idea that I was trying to remember, thanks for that. Brown seems a neutral colour

Firstly though I might try the brasso and polish up the threads and see how that goes before I put it back together.

Thanks everyone.

Neale.

[brian nordstrom (As avatar)]

Brown boot polish ? , no .
WD40 , oily residue everywhere, no . ( its diesel without the smell )
Graphite , like WD40 , gets every where , no.
Baby powder , works well but you cant use it for to long as it falls away and needs redoing over and over , no .

I use good old lip balm , 'Chap stick' as its natural bees wax , clear and does not spread everywhere and stays in place , does not hurt optics ( if cleaned off quick , like a finger print ) , neutral on paint and rubber , so use just a little of course . .
Great stuff , also good for Crayford focusers as a lube .

Brian.

[Merlin66 (Ken)]

Brian,
Don't knock the boot polish!

It's a tried and proven solution...I've been using it for over twenty years and it's never failed me.....

[brian nordstrom (As avatar)]

I am not its bees wax as well , it is just ,,,, has a brown die in it , and sorta gets every where like graphite , not every one uses a tiny amount like you and its the last thing you need at 2am , brown smudges appeareing out of no where .
Brian.

Originally Posted by Merlin66

Brian,
Don't knock the boot polish!

It's a tried and proven solution...I've been using it for over twenty years and it's never failed me.....

[brian nordstrom (As avatar)]

I have spent 20 odd years as a maintainence fitter in mill's here and in NZ and more than once I have woken up in the morning with me , my missus , the pillows , sheets covered with black stains .
It always is a tiny bit of graphite ( behind the ears ? ) that was not washed off properly in the shower the night before , that stuff gets every where !!. and stays .
I polish my Doc Martin's as well , red .
Yes boot polish works , if careful.
Brian.

[killswitch (Edison)]

Not sure if its a good idea or not but i use permatex anti-seize lubricant for my cars wheel studs, spark plugs, etc.

It works really well, so maybe a light residue of it on the threads will help.