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  #41  
Old 08-08-2005, 04:34 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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What type of shop is it? Camera Shop, Discount Store, ???
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2005, 05:57 PM
Soldant
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A terrible camera shop, filled with all sorts of rubbish.
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  #43  
Old 08-08-2005, 06:00 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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That's amazing.

As a Camera shop the guy should know about problems with optical equipment!
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  #44  
Old 08-08-2005, 06:34 PM
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asimov (John)
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I would say he know's all about THIS scopes optical configuration for sure. If all else fails (warranty wise) I would be putting the squeeze on him to at least fix the scope to it's original condition ie: being able to actually see something through it! If not, report him.
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  #45  
Old 08-08-2005, 07:09 PM
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Will do. I'm likely taking it back tomorrow.
I think he knows about the optics, but he's not willing to tell me. When I asked him what mirror he had, he went "Uh hmmm... dunno." He later actaully said there would likely be an inbuilt barlow.

Not adding up good
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  #46  
Old 13-08-2005, 10:43 PM
Apollo
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This is a bit late, but read the problems you are having with this. Not sure if you still have the scope but if you do there is a little trick I use to collimating these beauties. You can get reasonable images from it provided you dont go off axis too far. I am hoping it has the adjustable spider arms. Firstly remove the built in barlow from the inside end of the focus draw tube and try to collimate as per normal daylight collimating as best you can. Replace the built in barlow and prepare yourself for some tedious night time collimating. Forget about collimating on a star for the time being, use a planet like Jupiter, Saturn or Mars even a very distant light bulb might work. Keep the image centred and focused as best you can, you may notice considerable flaring. Working on the secondary mirror, adjust the centre axis (rotational) to reduce the amount of flaring. The centre position of the secondary now needs to be collimated, this is done by using the spider arm adjusters. You will notice as you pull the secondary from one side to the other the flaring will be drawn in or away from the main image, adjust so that the flaring is drawn in toward the main image, keep adjusting until most or all of the flaring is gone. Keep checking your focus and repeat as necessary. Now get yourself a reasonably bright star and perform a traditional collimation by very small adjustments on the primary mirror and possible the traditional three set screws on the secondary. Check back again on a planet and repeat the procedure again if necessary. I know it sounds like a lot of work and its not what you call a conventional collimation procedure, but it does work and you might be able to put the scope to some use. If you still have problems there may be a defect with it. Good luck.
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  #47  
Old 13-08-2005, 10:59 PM
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asimov (John)
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That's a very interesting method Apollo. And welcome to the forum by the way!
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  #48  
Old 13-08-2005, 11:11 PM
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Well, good evening there asimov and thanks for the welcome...Saturday night and I thought I would have a little look around.. Yes Its a very unconventional method. I think most people on the post are fortunate enough to have scopes that dont require this level of TLC, but Ive been exposed to this type of scope and it drove me nuts trying to get it right. I dont think you can ever get them totally right but you can get them to do a respectable job for you.
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  #49  
Old 13-08-2005, 11:22 PM
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asimov (John)
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I'm into 'unconventional' methods. Whatever works. Luckily, I've not had to deal with a telescope such as the one described. A conventional F5 newt is hard enough to collimate correctly.
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