7 frame verticle panorama of the Astronomical Society of NSW's Crago Observatory on Bowen Mountain near Richmond.
The observatory is open to visitors and members once a month. A great location to set up your own equipment or just take turns at looking through the observatories own 16" f/7 Dobsonian Telescope.
Hey Carlos, I was wondering how you do this? I've tried but it is hard as even a wide angle lens doesn't get this much sky. So I'm guessing it is done by stitching but with sky rotation it would make it hard, I was wondering if you would be able to share on any techniques on how this is done?
Excellent image Carlos. Your images have come a long way. Thats really well done.
Greg.
Thanks Greg! I appreciate the comment, all credit goes to all the feedback and tips from yourself and others in IIS. Now it's a matter of refining the processing steps and framing the subject matter well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pvelez
I like that - thanks for sharing
Pete
Thanks Pete
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerg
nice
Cheers Roger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny_86
Hey Carlos, I was wondering how you do this? I've tried but it is hard as even a wide angle lens doesn't get this much sky. So I'm guessing it is done by stitching but with sky rotation it would make it hard, I was wondering if you would be able to share on any techniques on how this is done?
cheers
Hi Danny, this is only my 5th or 6th panorama but what got me started was this link by 'Iceman' Mike - I followed these steps one by one. All but one, I've used Photoshop CS6 (tools - photomerge - auto) to do the stitching, I leave that bit to the computer. Often the image comes out warped/bent but using the warp tools (described by Mike) in photoshop I shape the photograph and level the ground. Afterwards I crop the edges and adjust levels/colours to my liking and there you have it. Try following Mike's tutorial its very good!
I think the key to avoiding too much rotation is to be very quick between taking frames?
I had another look at this one Carlos. Its really quite good. But I think to get beyond this standard you'll have to go Polarie and go longer and perhaps try a slightly lower ISO and boost it as needed in Lightroom after. But it has an overly stretched aspect that comes from not enough signal.
So your choices are wider lens (I am assuming this was F2.8 and there is no more to gain from a faster lens - they usually have coma), longer (Polarie and use an L bracket to get some of the angles on your camera).
Try 90 to 150 seconds per panel at F2.8 and ISO2000 or 3200 (you're using a 5D3 right?). Now take a second set of shots with Polarie off of the landscape. You can layer them in once you've stitched your sky.
If your lens comas in the corners then do F4.
It should avoid that overstretched look, increase colour saturation and make your image more robust to post processing.
Don't worry about rotation its not an issue. I have done several 18-32 image mosaics taken over 40 minutes or longer and it was no problem for the stitching software - besides, its being tracked by Polarie anyway right? Try to move your camera forward in the L mounting bracket so its closer to the lens aperture - that is the "nodal point" or the point where there is no parallac error on a camera and it will reduce parallax as well which should give less elongated stars above the MW (you don't have any in this image but they occur pretty easily).
Awesome Image Carlos, looks really cool & nice work
Thanks Bob!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmrid
Thanks for that Carlos. It's a [pretty impressive piece of work - and as a mosaic, it's also pretty darned good.
Peter
Thanks Peter!
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanP
Nice shot, Carlos, and nicely processed, too !!!
Thanks Ian!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley
I had another look at this one Carlos. Its really quite good. But I think to get beyond this standard you'll have to go Polarie and go longer and perhaps try a slightly lower ISO and boost it as needed in Lightroom after. But it has an overly stretched aspect that comes from not enough signal.
So your choices are wider lens (I am assuming this was F2.8 and there is no more to gain from a faster lens - they usually have coma), longer (Polarie and use an L bracket to get some of the angles on your camera).
Try 90 to 150 seconds per panel at F2.8 and ISO2000 or 3200 (you're using a 5D3 right?). Now take a second set of shots with Polarie off of the landscape. You can layer them in once you've stitched your sky.
If your lens comas in the corners then do F4.
It should avoid that overstretched look, increase colour saturation and make your image more robust to post processing.
Don't worry about rotation its not an issue. I have done several 18-32 image mosaics taken over 40 minutes or longer and it was no problem for the stitching software - besides, its being tracked by Polarie anyway right? Try to move your camera forward in the L mounting bracket so its closer to the lens aperture - that is the "nodal point" or the point where there is no parallac error on a camera and it will reduce parallax as well which should give less elongated stars above the MW (you don't have any in this image but they occur pretty easily).
Greg.
Thanks for that Greg I really appreciate it! The Polarie has been on my list for a while now.
Yes I'm using a MK3 and a 14mm Samyang (it still baffles me how well the 14mm perfoms) I have had it in my bag months now and this was the 2nd time I reluctantly used it. I find it a bit hit and miss with the focus.
I've been trying to decide between the Ioptron or Polarie, it appears that the Polarie has a few more settings and is slightly dearer, aesthetically I believe the Ioptron is sturdier but overall performance is comparable right? Hopefully I haven't opened a can of worms
Definately taking your suggestions on board Greg! Thanks again!
