Moon Capture Close Up

[SadisticSarz (Sara Freeman)]

This is as good as I can get my close ups with out it blurring

[raymo]

Again somehow posted as a huge image. This one is only a little overexposed. Again, how are you focusing, and how are you
getting your close ups?
raymo

[SadisticSarz (Sara Freeman)]

Originally Posted by raymo

Again somehow posted as a huge image. This one is only a little overexposed. Again, how are you focusing, and how are you
getting your close ups?
raymo

Im using a 6mm Plossl Eyepiece with my AIRTeck cam I zoom in on my cam. any advice or guidence would be greatful

[CJ (Chris)]

Hi Sara. I Googled AIRteck cameras but couldn't find out anything.
Can you post a pic of how your camera is fixed to your scope?
What scope/mount are you using?
When posting photos I tend to resize them down to about 1200 pixels. I work on the assumption that if the image is small I don't have to compress the jpg so much to get down to the 200kb limit. I think this results in a smaller but better quality image for posting here.
Cheers

[OzStarGazer]

Originally Posted by CJ

Hi Sara. I Googled AIRteck cameras but couldn't find out anything.

Maybe it's Aiptek?
http://www.aiptek.com/

Have you got Photoshop or a similar program for post-processing, Sara?
Most people here stack frames. Single frames usually need some post-processing. (I also have to work with single frames because my scope doesn't have tracking, which makes stacking very difficult...)

[SadisticSarz (Sara Freeman)]

Originally Posted by CJ

Hi Sara. I Googled AIRteck cameras but couldn't find out anything.
Can you post a pic of how your camera is fixed to your scope?
What scope/mount are you using?
When posting photos I tend to resize them down to about 1200 pixels. I work on the assumption that if the image is small I don't have to compress the jpg so much to get down to the 200kb limit. I think this results in a smaller but better quality image for posting here.
Cheers

Records Full HD 1920 x 1080 videos up to 30fps
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- Image Sensor: 5 Mega-pixels CMOS (2592 x 1944)
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•FULL HD / HD 1080P / QVGA up to 30fps •WVGA up to 60 fps - Internal Memory: 128MB built-in; 17MB for storage
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- LCD Display: 2.4" (4:3) TFT LCD with 270˚ rotation
- Lens: Fixed focus, 2 steps
- Focus Range: Normal: 50cm ~ ∞, Macro focus: 30cm ~ 50 cm
- Aperture Range: F3.0, f=7.4mm
- Flash Light: For pictures capture in low light (Auto / Off / On)
- Red-Eye Reduction: Yes(IGBT)
- Digital Zoom:
•4X digital zoom at WVGA & QVGA mode •2X digital zoom at HD1080P mode •N/A at Full HD - Night Shot Mode: Yes
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- Dimensions (LxWxH): 50x67x98mm
- Package Content: Camcorder built-in USB cable, Battery, Q-Tips, Hand Strap, USB Extension Cable, HDMI Cable

My camrea is not conected to the telescope i hold it by hand and focus through the eyepiece. Im getting a cam for my scope from the USA so i hope it will do better

[CJ (Chris)]

Ah. You will struggle to get a really crisp shot with a hand held camera.
If you want to go down the mechanically attached route there are quite a few different approaches!
Just to clarify my comment abut the image size for posting on the forum, the 1200 pixels referred to the larger dimension of the image for posting, not the total number of pixels!

[CJ (Chris)]

Forgive me if you've done loads of research but this article is worth a read.

http://www.iceinspace.com.au/63-671-0-0-1-0.html

[SadisticSarz (Sara Freeman)]

Thank you CJ for your help. I will look at the link and see what I can think about. as for image size yes I will use the 1200 pixels you mention or better yet a little smaller if i can get away with it

[jsmoraes (Jorge)]

Sara, you did a great effort !

Photo by projection from eyepiece isn't easy. You used an 6 mm Ploss. I don't know about your telescope, but your image seems to show that it will accept that 6 mm. But Ploss isn't the best for planets. You need orthoscopic one.

You published a 4000 x 3000 px image. Because of limitation from IIS to 200 kbytes, you needed to reduce very much the quality. For this resolution you need to crop a region of interest. Or publish it on another site that haven't file size limitation as www.astrobin.com

When you use the internal camera zoom you loose a bit of quality. The image with 4000 x 3000 px is very difficult to be seen with normal computer. Therefore you will need to reduce it, by negative zoom, to see the full photo. So, why zoom it if you will un-zoom later ?

If you crop a region of interest and zoom it, by resize image, in any graphic processor it will very much better.

You can use some tools to connect the camera to the telescope. See what and how I used: http://astronomia-e-astrofotos.10697...tes-td973.html

I did a fast work on your photo in Photoshop. It is very well for projection. You can get good photos with projection. Look some photos that I did with projection:

Moon:
http://jsmastronomy.30143.n7.nabble....oter-td48.html
http://jsmastronomy.30143.n7.nabble....tion-td37.html

Jupiter:
http://jsmastronomy.30143.n7.nabble....-2011-td5.html
http://jsmastronomy.30143.n7.nabble....2014-td17.html

[SadisticSarz (Sara Freeman)]

Hiya J

Thank you for you advice and guidance on this matter. I will change my image format so they are not so huge. question what program did you use to model that crater

[raymo]

Hi Sara, you need to remember that Jorge used a much larger scope to
get that crater image; yours may not have the light grasp to use the magnification that he did. That's not to say that you can't image it,
just that you would probably have to do it at lower magnification.
raymo

[jsmoraes (Jorge)]

The most important to get a good and large image of Moon, or planets, is the resolution: arcsec/pixel. And this is done by sensor of camera. Small size of pixel, amount of pixels, small distance between pixels.

Cameras don't amplify the image: the sensor is a flat surface without any magnification properties.
Therefore, the quality and magnification of image will be done by the optics of telescope and eyepiece if it is projection.

Large image is an issue. Quality (and magnification) is other.

Good barlow, like Televue Powermate, will help to get good amplification of image. Barlow does false amplification because it changes the focal ratio of telescope. Different from eyepiece real amplification. In astrophotography, the distance of sensor to the barlow is a great ressource to reduce the field of view and project only a part of surface on sensor with great enhancement of resolution and apparent amplification of details.

What is better to projection, barlow or eyepiece ?
Barlow if it is a good barlow, with very low spheric distortion. Eyepiece if you haven't a good barlow and if it is a good one.

Seeing is the main factor. Without it... no chance !

And to enhance the surface and details ... only using graphic processors like stacking, wavelets filters of Registax, Gimp or Photoshop, ...

[SadisticSarz (Sara Freeman)]

Originally Posted by raymo

Hi Sara, you need to remember that Jorge used a much larger scope to
get that crater image; yours may not have the light grasp to use the magnification that he did. That's not to say that you can't image it,
just that you would probably have to do it at lower magnification.
raymo

Thank you Ray & Jorge

As a newbe I will be happy with my scope for now and just learn how to use it and what each part dose. For me its fun to figure things our and I got a cool book to guide me too Practical Skywatching.

[rustigsmed (Russell)]

nice one Sara,

btw people you can click the left hand box in the upper right area of the window and it will fit it to screen, no real need to resize.