First go at Ha blending.

[TheDecepticon]

First go at blending a bit of Ha into some LRGB Data I had already.

About 6.6 Hrs in total, Megrez 110 and QHY9.

[Ross G]

Great looking photo for your first attempt.

Using Ha data is something I am hoping to try in the next few months.

I might have asked you this before, what field flattener are you using with your M110.
I also have an M110 with a WO FFII and am still having problems with the stars in the corners.

Good luck.

Ross.

[Alchemy (Clive)]

Well you're one step ahead of me, I'm hoping to have my qhy9 on Monday, so I will be attempting this kind of imaging.
Without any real knowledge of this blending process, I'm guessing you merged them together in Photoshop, using the luminosity values of the Ha image, and the color of the lrgb image ?

[TheDecepticon]

Originally Posted by Ross G

Great looking photo for your first attempt.

Using Ha data is something I am hoping to try in the next few months.

I might have asked you this before, what field flattener are you using with your M110.
I also have an M110 with a WO FFII and am still having problems with the stars in the corners.

Good luck.

Ross.

Thanks Ross. I am actually using a Flat 88. I have a Flat II, but do not use it as I don't like the really wide field. If you are having trouble in the corners, maybe you have some rotation caused by inaccuracies in polar alignment rather than a chip to flattener spacing issue.

Originally Posted by Alchemy

Well you're one step ahead of me, I'm hoping to have my qhy9 on Monday, so I will be attempting this kind of imaging.
Without any real knowledge of this blending process, I'm guessing you merged them together in Photoshop, using the luminosity values of the Ha image, and the color of the lrgb image ?

Hi Clive. Sort of. I blended the R and L with the Ha at 50% each then created the image as a HaL,HaR,G,B. Then I blended in some more RGB to improve star colour(which the Jpeg doesn't show) and some Ha to get some more wispy stuff.

[Paul Haese]

Looks very reasonable for your first attempt Gray. I always use differing amounts now to get the right look and even then I have to reprocess several times to get it right. However as a guide I usually use around 37% blend opacity and then move it up and down to suit. The hardest thing is making sure the blue haloes don't show too much. Well that and the salmon hues. As you saw at science alive the blue halos can be troublesome even when printing up the image.

[TheDecepticon]

Thanks for the tips, Paul. I will give it a try. Is it best to lay the red on the top layer? Does that even matter? And do you blend in the Ha with both the colour and luminance data?

I did a repro to try to lighten it up a bit. It looked to dark on the net. Up loading them must change them some how??

I did notice on the right hand side about 1/4 the way down in the streamer coming from his head it looks sorta like a "little pillar of creation" with a couple of stars in it. Either that or it is a really good chance alignment.

http://tinyurl.com/3v7hg4d

[Paul Haese]

For blending and this is not the only method, but one I use; I blend the Ha to the Lum layer in photoshop and then do a combine in CCDstack with the colour RGB.

Sometimes it is good to blend the Ha with the individual colour frames too.

What ever choice you make the colour or lum must be the background layer and the Ha is blended over the top.

The colour shift or what you are seeing could be the colour settings you have in your photo editor. I use sRGB IEC61966 for the most part. Sometimes using Adobe RGB 1998 is a require colour setting. Each has subtle hues and tones. If you are using other ones to this then that could be the reason for the changes you are seeing. Otherwise colour should remain the same on upload.

[TheDecepticon]

Thanks Paul, all taken on board and I'll sus out the colour profile.