Well, here is my third attempt at getting this shot right, and I think that I am getting close. it troubles me to look at this version and think 'why didnt I up the exposure in processing' but I will do that tonight :-)
oh forgot the details :-)
Canon 7D
18mm, f3.5, 20s
two rows of 12 images (24) stitched.
Last edited by adavis; 31-05-2013 at 05:42 PM.
Reason: More Info
Ok OK OK, very valid feedback
I'm heading back to Mt Banks this Saturday, so i'll give it another shot.
The moon will be much dimmer then too, so it is a worthy exercise.
Did you have the camera on full manual? The right hand side panels are brownish. You need to lock exposure so it doesn't auto meter as you swing around.
You can get a higher frame by holding the camera in portrait orientation (you may've done that).
F3.5 is kind of slow - is that because the lens has aberrations wide open?
Did you have the camera on full manual? The right hand side panels are brownish. You need to lock exposure so it doesn't auto meter as you swing around.
You can get a higher frame by holding the camera in portrait orientation (you may've done that).
F3.5 is kind of slow - is that because the lens has aberrations wide open?
Greg.
Camera was shot in Bulb mode, so I guess that is pretty much fully manual, I use an intervalometer to set exposure times and control shutter.
I think that the colour casting is due to the bright moon illuminating the left hand side and when the camera isnt looking at it the colour cast changes, not sure to be honest, but the exposures were all the same.
yeah it is portrait shots, two high, I just didnt think to get more foreground in the shot, not to mention that it was pitch black :-)
Unfortunately, f3.5 is the widest that this lens goes to, otherwise I would be definitely shooting wider open.
Camera was shot in Bulb mode, so I guess that is pretty much fully manual, I use an intervalometer to set exposure times and control shutter.
I think that the colour casting is due to the bright moon illuminating the left hand side and when the camera isnt looking at it the colour cast changes, not sure to be honest, but the exposures were all the same.
yeah it is portrait shots, two high, I just didnt think to get more foreground in the shot, not to mention that it was pitch black :-)
Unfortunately, f3.5 is the widest that this lens goes to, otherwise I would be definitely shooting wider open.
I don't think the moon is the reason for that brown cast. I haven't seen that happen with any of my cameras (several brands). What does the exif data show about exposure details for those shots? Did you set a fixed white balance for all when processing? I usually process a RAW of one from a series in a panorama to where I like it then save the settings and simply apply them to the rest in the sequence. That works well.
No polariser on the lens is there? If that happens again I would suggest holding down the exposure lock button when taking the shots and not use an intervalometer.
The Samyang 14mm F2.8 lens is hard to beat bag for buck and you can load a distortion correction lens profile to correct that. It will help get a wider and higher image.
I don't think the moon is the reason for that brown cast. I haven't seen that happen with any of my cameras (several brands). What does the exif data show about exposure details for those shots? Did you set a fixed white balance for all when processing? I usually process a RAW of one from a series in a panorama to where I like it then save the settings and simply apply them to the rest in the sequence. That works well.
No polariser on the lens is there? If that happens again I would suggest holding down the exposure lock button when taking the shots and not use an intervalometer.
The Samyang 14mm F2.8 lens is hard to beat bag for buck and you can load a distortion correction lens profile to correct that. It will help get a wider and higher image.
Greg.
Hi Greg, thanks heaps for the pointers and suggestions, it is appreciated :-)
No Polariser, I would need to look at the WB but it wasnt on auto, in fact, nothing was on auto. I have seen the variable colour cast from Mt Banks before due to the different types of lights at each end of the pano.
On the right the glow cast is from the fog based street lights at Bell, where as in this image the moon gave a much whiter tinge to it.
I'm going back this weekend for another crack at it, and will do some playing around this time.
I didnt process the individual images beyond a lens profile before stitching, I processed them in LR after stitching as one, so that wasnt the issue either.
Yes, I am looking for a better lens, just trying to convince the minister for finance that it is a good idea :-)
Andrew has the 7D, so the Samyang 14mm isn't very wide on a crop sensor.
I'd recommend the TOkina 11-16 f2.8.
Cool, thanks for the recommendation Mike, I am looking for a wider, lower aperture lens very soon, so that really helps out.
Thinking ahead, will that lens work ok with full frame sensor?
It won't work on a full-frame sensor. So it depends how long you plan on sticking with the 7D before you get itchy for full-frame
Not long I suspect
hmmmm, arrrmm, hmmm, bugger.
I'm itchy, dont get me wrong, but having JUST bought the 7D, cant justify a full frame.
well, not this year at least, that just wont fly.
I got the 7D by stealth, we needed a family camera as we were sick of using iPhones and getting no photos of the kids in assemblies and band recitals.
Now we have fantastic photos of the kids, but yeah, Im left wanting :-)
No Polariser, I would need to look at the WB but it wasnt on auto, in fact, nothing was on auto. I have seen the variable colour cast from Mt Banks before due to the different types of lights at each end of the pano.
On the right the glow cast is from the fog based street lights at Bell, where as in this image the moon gave a much whiter tinge to it.
I'm going back this weekend for another crack at it, and will do some playing around this time.
I didnt process the individual images beyond a lens profile before stitching, I processed them in LR after stitching as one, so that wasnt the issue either.
Yes, I am looking for a better lens, just trying to convince the minister for finance that it is a good idea :-)[/QUOTE]
Its an odd phenomena. Its hard to understand because I haven't seen it happen with my gear. Perhaps next time if it happens again try using the exposure lock or double check you are in fact in manual mode (bulb may not put it in manual mode??). Actually now that I think about it I have seen something similar with my 40D. Perhaps something is still on auto despite the settings (auto metering or auto white balance). I would try setting white balance to a specific temperature like 4200K.
I have my cameras set to manual mode and set the exposure using the internal camera exposure settings and set the ISO and white balance usually to 4200K and for the Nikon I knock down green and magenta one click - Canon would be different. I set the aperture manually. Focus is set and sometimes locked (with a piece of tape on the focus ring) or simply left alone. It can be tricky with a Polarie as the action of mounting it on the Polarie can knock the focus ring and put focus off.
Different brands have slightly different responses. For Fuji XE1 (best mirrorless low light high ISO low noise performer) and Sony Nex 6 auto white balance works really well. Fuji in particular has a fantastic white balance firmware, superior to other cameras I have used. Sony is good too but in a more automated way, noisier than the XE1 but still quite good. It really needs longer exposures and the 30 second style of shooting isn't deep enough to take much processing. XE1 is and Nikon D800E is quite a strong and deep signal (high sensitivity chip).
Its part camera, part lens, part tracking device, part Art! About equal doses of each!
Its an odd phenomena. Its hard to understand because I haven't seen it happen with my gear. Perhaps next time if it happens again try using the exposure lock or double check you are in fact in manual mode (bulb may not put it in manual mode??). Actually now that I think about it I have seen something similar with my 40D. Perhaps something is still on auto despite the settings (auto metering or auto white balance). I would try setting white balance to a specific temperature like 4200K.
Good point, I will give that a crack for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley
I set the aperture manually. Focus is set and sometimes locked (with a piece of tape on the focus ring) or simply left alone. It can be tricky with a Polarie as the action of mounting it on the Polarie can knock the focus ring and put focus off.
Yep I figured out the focus trick myself, I have a rubber band that slips over the focus ring and holds it in place. The Canon 18mm-200mm zoom has a really loose focus ring in manual.
Im beginning to work it all out and get into a routine now, that has me checking the focus, the ISO, the aperture and the intervalometer timing maybe 5 times before I take a shot. I need to add WB and such other auto items in there too.
Nice work Andrew, I bet it was fun trying to stitch all 24 images together.
My 2 cents re lenses is get ones that are full frame compatible. I'm a very recent convert to full frame and I'm so glad my investment in lens isn't wasted. When I first started buying additional lenses I never thought I'd go full frame but thought it was a way of future proofing myself. It also helped me justify the full frame purchase as I only needed a new body all my lenses still worked so it was "just" the cost of the body
