Quote:
Originally Posted by von Tom
The in-camera settings are Landscape Picture Style (colours seem more pronounced), sharpness and contrast at maximum, ISO 100 to 400 and shutter speeds from 1/60 to 1/600 or thereabouts and auto(!) white balance. I'll typically capture 1000-6000 frames at 640x480 50 frames/sec. The tracking on the Sky Watcher (alt-az Dob) jiggles around a bit but generally stays in frame quite well.
After capture, which is in .MOV format, I'll use Avidemux to save each frame as a jpg. Then I use Registax on all of them and select the best 200 frames or so. Aligning then optimising/stacking, I'll re-align with processed and Drizzle 150%.
I am still experimenting with wavelets in Registax, so each time I use it it's a bit different. Sometimes I'll use Photoshop (7) to do the sharpening (USM in different stages).
I save as a 16-bit TIF from Registax and tweak levels and sharpening in Photoshop. Throughout all of this I really haven't touched the colours save what I did with the camera settings. I will use the Registax RGB align function.
If I post a stacked TIF of Saturn or Jupiter from Registax here (no sharpening or colour management) I would love to see what others can do with it, and what the optimal post processing may be.
I don't think I've yet reached the limits of what the 550D DSLR can do yet, in terms of resolution, and I'm willing to push it and the telescope to the limits. The camera is set at prime focus and I haven't yet tried eyepiece projection and don't have a Barlow lens yet.
The camera is great to use. I can visually focus and modify exposures, and can have it set up in a very short amount of time. I don't get alot of 'scope time so at this stage it's the best setup for me.
Cheers,
Tom
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Hi Tom, Firstly some nice shots. As Mike has mentioned there is some colour alignment issues.
I have done a lot of planetary capture of Jupiter with my DSLR so I can help.
Firstly have a look at my gallery website you will see a couple of Jupiter shots that have been done with my DSLR.
Actually yesterday I started to re-visit a lot of my Jupiter images because of an issue with my Deep sky colours and have made some improvements as well.
Firstly how fast is Jupiter being copied (Frame Per Second). The ones on my website are at 6-8 FPS. This means that I can only capture about 500 frames before Jupiters super fast rotation starts to blur the image, so 6000 at this speed would show up major issue 1000 will be good no more. If your mode is faster than maximum I would take is is about 3000 for 30FPS.
I have only just found some new software that I hope to use to improvement frame rate but I am on DOB hold for a while.
Colour alignment in Registax in the most case estimate is quite good, I have only just started to use it manually for ever so slight improvements.
One other thing we have in common is I do my planetary image using a DOB, but I do not have ALT/AZ tracking which you have. One of the issues you will have is rotation especially with 6000 frames even at higher FPS. I use an Equatorial Platform which work slightly different so I have no problem with rotation affects.
I believe there is a feature called De-Rotate on the alignment TAB, I do not use it but I suppose it is for your situation, It is designed to rotate the Planet to minimising the effects of ALT/AZ rotation.
What is interesting is that you don't have a Barlow, Your images are quite large for a barlow. I find Drizzling may not be the best way to increase the size. Maybe to start keep it at normal size to start, see what kind of effect that creates.
Just to let you know that I am now having colour alignment issues which I didn't think were a problem even with my images, but as I found out yesterday, I have managed to get some massively sharp improvements, but to the detriment of colour. The reason is my barlow, you though are using tele-extenders this could be causing Chromatic Aberration which I have only recently found it to be one of my problems. The only resolution to this taking 3 sperate images, each one focused on a different colour 1 for Red, 1 for Green and 1 for Blue. With the tele-xenders they could be causing each colour to be out of focus
Honestly there is so much more to say only to say I have been imaging now for about 1 year, and I am still finding things new to learn in my processing. Keep up the good work, getting up at 4am is a chore enough for me.