[SOLD] EOS 40D [Modified] plus plus

[pmrid (Peter)]

Body only Canon EOS 40D with Sinclair Camera (U.S.A. premier modifier) with their Visual + Ha mod. It's the same as the Baader filter.

The EXTRAS:
1. Basic astro accessories:
T-Ring;
4 X batteries and charger.
External Power Kit.
512MB CF Card (I don't normally save to card anyway).
USB cable.

Shoestring Astronomy DSUSB with connector for 40D

Cooler box. This is a DIY cooler made around this camera and using high quality air-to-air peltier system from the States. It will drop down 18-20C from ambient but I don't usually go that low so as to manage dew-risk. This runs off 12 VDC.

Digital TEC cooler controller. This is what I use to maintain the temperature within a range - I have been using 6-8C as a rule. It's also 12VDC. The 40D has an internal temp sensor and this is part of the AFITS header.

The camera alone would sell on these forums for about $450. The DSUSB etc costs about A$120 to buy here with the right connectors. The cooler box cost about $140 to build. The TEC controller costs about $30. SO That's about $750 worth. I'll sell the lot for A$600 plus postage.

Photos will follow later today with a bit of luck and good timing.

Peter

[g__day (Matthew)]

Peter,

I will say yes! Please do send some pictures.

Will send you a PM - my details haven't changed - will confirm your are still the same in my PM.

Cheers,

Matthew

[g__day (Matthew)]

$$$ sent Peter, many thanks!

[pmrid (Peter)]

I said I'd put up some pics.
Matthew - with the cooler box - once the camera is installed inside, I usually put a couple of ZIP-ties on both tnd to hold the faceplate rigid.
The Digital temp controller has an external temp sensor. I run that inside the box with the other cables and attach the sensor to the back of the camera with a blob of blue-tak.
The TEC draws about 4 amps from memory so it wants a reasonable power supply. I have been in the habit of putting a 5 Amp fuse in the positiv lead to it - just for safety sake.
I think the temp controller is currently set for 6min to 8 max temp. That's a good place to start. There is a fair amount of hysterisis (tendency for the temp to keep getting cooler on the way down and hotter on the way up - by a few degrees but that does settle down somewhat. I was going to add a simple PWM to the power out to the TEC to drop the voltage going to the peltier a bit to see if that had a moderating effect on that hysterisis. Didn't get around to doing that though - that's a project for you if you want one.

Peter