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Old 23-03-2005, 03:28 PM
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vindictive666 (John)
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rusting allready cool hey :)

gday all

after perusing for perheps a longer bolt to fix the ever ongoing drama of the centre bolt ect ect

i managed to find a longer and the same threaded bolt as the orginal and even the lock nut fitted (amazing) so now ive got a longer bolt thru the guts and the lock nut went on further so now ill see how its gonna go

allso i noticed some surface rust on the ota (outside) interesting mutter mutter)after only a little bit of dew

so got some oil and a rag and fixed that problem i hope any better suggestions ?

besides repainting the whole thing though

also very gently cleaned the 15mm plossle it had my eyeprint on it heh heh
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Old 23-03-2005, 03:45 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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RUST!! ?????

Mine is out in the heavy Dew most nights and there is not a mark on it.

Are you near any sea breeze, that will do it.
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Old 23-03-2005, 03:56 PM
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yep as the crow flies only about 2 clicks ( oh yes its rust for sure)
usually a southerly plus there wasnt an breeze last night so go figure

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Old 23-03-2005, 04:09 PM
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ballaratdragons (Ken)
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Salt is in the air near the sea. You don't even need a wind. Notice how cars rust quicker than cars further away from the sea. But it happened a bit quick! spray the whole lot and polish with Mr. Sheen or a similiar wax product (be careful of your optics).
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Old 23-03-2005, 04:29 PM
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ving (David)
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spray, wax and polish as you dust with mister sheen!
you can hear the cars rusting sometimes. glad I dont get that problem. never herd of a ota rusting b4 tho....
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Old 23-03-2005, 04:34 PM
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what ill do is ill spray a lot on a rag and use it that way cuz

as you know no matter how careful you are wid sprays it goes every where anyhow
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Old 23-03-2005, 04:39 PM
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Use a Wax product, not an oil product. The wax should dry to a hard coating (microscopic) but oil stays oily and you will spread it around after touching the OTA. Imagine that on your EP's!

The more you wax coat, the better.

If you are going to rag it on, it might be easier with a wax based car polish!!!

Last edited by ballaratdragons; 23-03-2005 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 23-03-2005, 04:48 PM
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dont suppose a brand name comes to mind (turtle wax perhaps)
ill read the container anyhoo no oils okey dokey

a bit of humor (a small bit )
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Old 23-03-2005, 05:02 PM
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Personally Vind. I wouldn't bother cleaning the optics unless they are really really really bad, you've only had them a week or two haven't you?... If you cant notice it when viewing and you accidently scratched the EP while trying to clean it you'll kick yourself for weeks!! The corrector plate on my LX200 is filthy from all the dew etc over the 18+ months I've had it - I've even had bits of leaves etc stuck to it from the dew etc, also my diagonal which I only use for visual work is also filthy - its primary role is as a dust cover for when the scope is unused yet with all this crud on both the corrector + diagonal (plus all the crap on the EP's) the views are still great with no noticable hint of obstruction/loss in light transmission from the oil, crud, pollen + who knows what else is stuck to the lenses/glass
....yeah theoritically all that crud does affect the light as it passes through but its basically unnoticable to the eye....to me its not worth the risk of damage for basically no noticable change in cleaning a little bit of oil etc... just my opinion mate
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Old 23-03-2005, 06:15 PM
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You could try putting a sacrificial anode made of zinc on the OTA. It should oxidise in preference to the iron. You can get them from ship chandlers.
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Old 23-03-2005, 10:20 PM
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I have Rust (corrosion) also; I live 10km from the coast, it shouldn’t rust that quick though. I wipe my scope down after every use and keep it up stairs covered with a sheet. The rust is coming from under the paint on mine. The paint is supposed to protect the metal.
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  #12  
Old 24-03-2005, 03:26 AM
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Trade up to a Meade. They're cardboard & will never rust. L.
Use a good car polish. (Re-Po with Carnauba wax).
ps. Wax on---Wax off.

Last edited by RAJAH235; 24-03-2005 at 03:32 AM.
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