My 1100D modding thread *IR Cut mod finished* ETA CARINAE images Stock VS Modded
Heya guys I will be using this thread to post pics and progress as I turn one of my 1100D into a AP cam. I have being reading through Gary Honis's work and Gina's of the stargazers lounge, along with a large number of others. Thanks to Gina's experiments and findings it helped me alot with my modding plans, it looks like a cold finger won't be needed thank god
I grabbed this camera for $398 at harvey normans with a non IS 18mm-55 lens, so if it breaks i won't be left in tears. My first mod will be to remove the canon I/R and place back the AA/dust filter, I don't need AF so I won't be putting a replacement filter in. My next mod will be a cooler box with a twist. I plan to use ducting into the the camera along with air filters to kill of any dust, i will also draw heat of the toshiba IC with a heat sink. I Plan to duct air between the sensor and the pcb in place of using a cold finger, this is because Gina's findings found you don't need sub zero temps and at 20 cel noise is pretty sweet.
This won't happen overnight, I have yet to order some tools of ebay and make a dust free chamber for filter removal. I might Just get slack and use the bathroom and some steam, along with some talc free latex gloves yet. Any input is welcome and here is a pic of the cam before things get under way
Cheers Rowland, have got a few ideas with the cooling if the ducting isn't going to be workable. The main backup plan is using a non-conductive material which is great thermal transfere such as this http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=19703 to pack the rear of the sensor and turn the shim into heat transfere surface I've used this stuff quite alot on pc vga cards for power mosfets, though i wouldn't mind hunting around for the very best.
This camera will never be used again for normal use, which lets me sort of goto town modding it lol. I'am even planing to lose the lcd&mic and any un-needed parts, I may even fully re-house to make life easier. I'll see how things go, just getting all the prep work done atm with screw sheet and getting screws drivers ordered ect
Jay. I did the filter mod in the bathroom, then stored the sensor assembly in a glad bag with desiccant for a few days to remove any moisture before sealing the entire assembly with Silicon. I've had ice on the face of the low pass filter - on clearing it, the inside surfaces are free of moisture.
Cheers for the heads up man, lol would love to go to the extream and vacum seal camera unit or something like argon or co2. Maybe you could isolate the lp filter by haveing a clear filter infront of the sesnor like those clip in ones though sealed from outside atmosphere. Someone here posted a dew heater eliment just infont of there dsi II which solved the prob for them. Will have to expirement when i cross that bridge.
Little update have started by removing the first few screws only to find you really do need a #000 and #00. I will have to get back to it friday after i have a chance to get to altronics So if your doing yours don't be tempted to skip and try cheap jewlers drivers.
Got the #000 and #00 from jaycar today, along with a full set of tweezer and hobby knife. I also got a few pairs of latex non tac gloves and zip baggys. Starting to look like a drug lab crossed with a bomb making den hahah. Have Just popped in half and have gotten the worest job over with not tearing the lcd cable Step 12 of the guide atm http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod1100Dstep12.html
Well the sensor is out w00t, zero damage to cables and all is good. 1 tip you don't need to fully removing housing to get to the top sensor screw, just gently pry up the top plastic casing with your finger to gain access to the screw. Heres tonight's pics guys i will hopefully get to the IR cut removal tomorrow as well as the LP filter replacement It's really quite simple to do so don't let the manual frown you off it, just double check before doing each step.
LP filter is out without a scratch or crack nor chip w00t. Just have to remove the IR cut now which will be put in the bin, may even keep to make a cool pair of shades if i do a second haha. 2 pics showing naked cmos sensor and LP #1 removed but IR cut still in the housing to be removed Just worried about the dust bunnies now :/ but a clean will sort that out.
IR Cut removed and LP replaced and glued. Bah what a mess and I have yet to put the whole thing back together. I did run into trouble with the LP filter and a residue from the cling wrap "Don't use cling wrap, Use baggy's". I got this off with some non treated toilet tissue that was moistened by 30 secs in a microwave , how ever this then left dust. I busted these dust bunnies with a fine sponge makeup applicator, these things are better then those pricey lens cleaner swabs I can only hope i used enough glue as i didn't want to go overboard and risk LP damage :O Anyhow 20hrs should tell and hopefully my next post will be it re-assembled. I will then be run some test shots to post and after that will be phase II Cooling mahaha
BTW My IR Cut got broken no ozzy osbourne glass's for me but i just pushed it out so it has no chance anyhow hahah
cheers Rowland, gotta chase down some baggys from a shoe store lol. Might just add a little more to the top of the LP wells just to be on the safe side
WooT WooT , shes all go guys. On first go it wasn't though, i already thought cable H was being a little ***** but after quickly re-inserting with force it was all systems go. On first fire up it asked for date time ect once set it was alive again Now the Fiber optic cable is a bit fiddle i made a tool to help guide this into home base, don't use tweezers because you will break this. Once my wife gets back from the MPAS public viewing ill pump some test shots out, i have run a few on the modded cam but will setup so you can see between the 2. I wont get a chance tonight to do m42 its pouring rain and windy at cranbourne. Any how some more pics which may help out other users doing this to a 1100D.
Now for the pics you have being waiting for, well its no sky but show results Quality is piss poor due to IIS having a 200kb file limit, the raws show the god like power Cheers Rowland, can't wait to start cooling mate. I'll get some darks tomorrow for reference and some flats to find the dust bunnies. Also planing some m42 shoots to show the diff of modded vs stock , thats if its good weather. The first shot is downlights warm halogen bulbs and the hall cool white cfl, don't have color temps sorry :/ Lol looks like it will have to be eta carinae since m42 is to low after dusk
Not yet Rowland, might get motivated today and gets some out. Have being more in wait for clear sky's lol, every night as being rain and cloud since i did the mod. Will be starting cooling once i get some time to plan it out, pretty settled on a full re-housing though the on/off will need relocation. Getting a enclosure to suit is going to be the hard part, something air tight and light. Really looking at a rip off of the Koren's, though I might go for multi TEC's to control temps.
T-shirt flats here ISO 800 and 1600 / AV MODE, lol sorry about the others someone should have said WTF are you doing with 15secs exposure. Anyhow not bad, there's maybe 3 or 4 small dust bunnies but thats what flats are for. Really happy in away as i've seen way worse around the web. Also this could be the shirt i used or dust on the ED100. Will have to get some light box's built for the scopes stat , hmm guess I could just use a 18-55mm and homebrew lightbox it? Not a expert here guys so input welcome http://www.users.on.net/~paulafl/IMG_0021.CR2 ISO 800 http://www.users.on.net/~paulafl/IMG_0027.CR2 ISO 1600
Just did a reference shot with the 18-55mm on a plaster wall done in flat white paint. This makes very happy as this is near perfect for my first attempt and working with what i had anti dust wise IMO.
but i just pushed it out so it has no chance anyhow hahah
