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I have actually found the opposite with regard to darks, with really good flats (And your master flat and master bias should be 32 bit not 16 bit) you can sometimes see a slight brightening in the corners at high stretches unless a master dark is used along with a master flat. When I first got my 2600MC I used master bias only to calibrate both lights and flats, but soon moved to master bias for the flats to generate a master flat, and that master flat and a master dark, to calibrate lights. Dark-flats are not very useful for me as I normally shoot sky flats so the exposure times vary widely, in the range of 0.2 to 40 seconds per filter.
For the OP, you should be able to create master dark and master bias frames and re-use those for months, you don't need to shoot bias frames to go with each set of lights at the time you shoot them. So long as you use the same gain and sensor temp master bias and master dark frames are good to reuse for months with these cameras. Flats are the ones you don't want to disturb the image train for, to make sure any vignetting and dust bunnies match up with the lights.
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