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Old 06-09-2012, 03:53 PM
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colinmlegg (Colin)
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Perth, WA
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Geoff:

Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffsims View Post
Hi Colin,

That's impressive you have had success using 2 cameras for the same scene, and as I imagined only doable by effectively eliminating any parallax effects. I think in the context of a TSE, this additional requirement would severely limit not only the artistic composition of the shot, but also the locations at which you shoot from. Generally, it is the foreground objects (nearby, or otherwise) that make a wide angle totality shot really stunning. For me, I like to remain mobile as well (i.e., move at the last minute if the weather is dodgy) so trying to find a good shot with no near foreground objects, at the last minute, may be too difficult and probably a deal breaker. Still, it's an interesting idea if anyone is willing to try it!

Yes, probably not worth trying unless you have the equipment to spare. It would probably work nicely on your 2008 shots though, since none of the foreground intrudes into the sky. If I go I might give it a shot.

OK, so 1/10s is the limit for bulb via a PC. This is probably OK, as you can choose the correct ISO to not have to go faster than this. This way, you could probably shoot every 1 second, alternating exposures (then combine each set of 2 shots using layer blends). Effective cadence would be 2 seconds during totality, yielding a 2.5 second sequence at 24 fps (for a 2 minute duration totality).

May be a bit less (in terms of fps) if you factor in the 0.2-0.3 seconds it takes to process each shot. Once you run out of buffer this is the limiting factor. What shutter would you choose for the landscape?

The only problem I see with my suggestion of three separate sequences which are cross-faded together, is that there is little room to cross fade, particularly between sequences 2 and 3. I would imagine you'd need at least a second or two of footage overlap to do a good cross fade.

By the way, I have not seen any light curves, but will have a look.

Thanks. I had a quick look but couldn't find anything in terms of EV.
Greg:

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley View Post
As an eclipse is not the same as night time darkness I think you would be able to do a time lapse.

My D800E's internal time lapse would work if set to aperture priority mode. It works down to fairly dark and then when dark it does not boost the exposure time nor the ISO enough to night time proper exposures but I am confident it would handle dim light from an eclipse.

Do you know what the minimum adjustment size is in terms of EV? On the Canons it's 1/8 EV in full auto mode. On point and shoots it's around 1/32 EV. For flicker free you need around 1/100 EV.


Greg.

Last edited by colinmlegg; 06-09-2012 at 04:45 PM. Reason: typo
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