Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephane
Thanks all for the kind words. 
Martin, I find achieving perfect focus challenging. I remember your diffraction spike tip, but still finding it difficult. I will continue practicing and will aim to get the lowest HFR possible.
Ryan, I also noticed the slight overcorrection in the top left corner. This image was cropped, but I didn’t notice anything in the uncropped version. I will keep an eye on it. If it does need a mm or two shaved off, I could remove the thin ring on the coma corrector. Also, thanks for the dual band terminology correction.
Thanks again for the tips. Please don’t hesitate to go hard on me. It’s the only way to improve. 
Clear skies,
Stéphane |
Stephane,
There’s a load of different ways to focus which all do the job
I use a ZWOEAF focuser with remote handcontroller ( I use a 5m long TRRS 4 conductor cable to allow my ZWOEAF HC to sit on my workstation desk next to the laptop both outdoors in Sydney and in my NexDome down South. Then use APT to capture 15 sec subs on my focus Star near your intended target. APT has a zoomed in thumbnail to view your focus star. You need a program that can zoom in at 5x or 10x , that way you can see the diffraction spikes and Star core get tighter and tighter until your happy. I used this method the same way in my DSLR days with BYEOS.Once your focused and framed you can check your subs throughout the night session by checking the zoomed in Thumbnails on any star in the field of view.Initial focusing takes me about 5 to 10 mins.
Antiquated, yes but it works for me and I rarely have an out of focus image to be honest
Cheers
Martin