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Hi,
I was referring to the glass directly over the sensor as in the pictures attached.
the first shows the glass lifted at the top right corner, it turns grey as you lift it, if you lift too much, then it just cracks.
the second pic shows the glass removed. you need to remove this to get to the sensor surface.
so basically the wires and the sensor are exposed.
I was thinking of just sticking a clear glass over the sensor and removing the IR filter.
in the 1000D's and similar, there are actually two glass layers, the top most one is the one that's normally removed or replaced for the mod.
I believe the bottom one is the AA glass and has the piezo for dust cleaning.
I'll most probably mod a 1000D or a 400D next. the 450D seems attractive as its 14bit. but a bit more pricey for second hand.
As for the filter, I was hoping to use the IDAS-LPS-P2 filter as the "L" filter for LRGB as this from what I can see, covers the normal "L" wavelengths and cuts off LP wavelengths.
Greg, in terms of QE, I know the dslr's are only between 25 to 30%. would you know of any mid-range dslr's that have relatively high QE?
I don't think I'll try the Fuji or the Sony just yet.
yes, Guy, author of BEOS has also done mono conversions for Nikons. I prefer Canon's just for the software support although if I can debayer a D40, I might take on a QHY8!!
two second hand QHY8's (in case I break one), are still cheaper than a comparable mono.
Cheers
Alistair
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