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Hi Brendan,
which glass were you referring to? the one that's stuck to the sensor itself?
It actually pops off with gentle pressure all around. you'll see it becoming milky white as you're lifting it, but the key is not to lift it too much else it'll crack.
i managed to remove the glass intact from the 1000d sensor this way.
the 350D is similar although I didn't have the patience so just broke it off.
the 1100D is the one that's reportedly extremely well stuck on. the SGL user Gina tried every method possible to get it off but failed.
one clue on which ones are possible could be from the maxmax website and the models they convert. you'd notice they dont have the 1100D there.
these are the ones they do, and I don't see any reason why we can't mod these ourselves.
Canon 60D, 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 70D, 300D (Rebel), 350D (XT), 400D(Xti), 450D (XSi), 500D (T1i), 550D (T2i), 600D (T3i), 1000D (XS), 650D (T4i), 5D, 7D, 1DS MKI.MKII, MK III, MKIV and 5D MKII, MK III
Nikon D1X, D2X, D2H, D100, D40, D40X, D50, D60, D70, D80, D90, D200, D300, D300s. D600, D700, D800, D3, D3x, D3000, D5000
Fuji S3 Pro, Fuji S5 Pro.
Leaf: 75S ($1,500 conversion)
Olympus E410, E420, E510, E520, E620
one point to note is that this process removes the microlenses. so to see that the results are better even without the microlenses shows that its got good promise.
I'm just waiting for a break in the clouds and will try some "L" subs and a few Ha subs.
my next venture will be on a more sensitive one and then cool it.
most important bit is not to go anywhere near those darn golden wires in the sides. they're so thin you can hardly see them and they come off at the slightest contact. that would render the sensor useless.
Cheers
Alistair
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