Quote:
Originally Posted by The_bluester
The best calibration routine I have found to date, is to calibrate flats (Which can be at a range of exposure times) with a master bias, and lights with the resulting master flat and a matching master dark. Using a master bias in place of a master dark resulted in some brightening of the corners, presumably due to applying the flat frame to what little dark current these cameras have.
The benefit of being able to use a master bias to calibrate the lights instead of a master dark-flat (Or flat-dark, whichever term you go with) is that the flat exposure times can vary as much as you like. I set up my software to take dawn flats each session and exposures vary all the way from 40 to about 0.2 seconds depending on the approaching dawn, and which filter is being shot.
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Thanks Paul.
I am getting rather serious and learning everything I can and although you suggest a particular method I will do a variety of tests if I ever get a run of decent clear sky and see how I can fit your system into my selected routine. I think the RASA may take a while to get a sensible work flow...
I have formed an initial impression that flats are most necessary whereas darks, given the cameras these days, is not as big an issue as it once was...dithering and many subs already has shown to me, at least to me, noise is usually not too bad..flats however I know will improve my images greatly.
Thanks again for everything.
Alex