[kens (Ken)]

No, not the PoleMaster although it does apparently now work in the Southern Hemisphere.
But inspired by the idea I rummaged around in my spares box where I had two polar scopes. One for the Super Polaris and the other for the SW EQ6.
Both are pretty much identical with the exception of the screw thread for the eyepiece, slightly different focal lengths and therefore slightly different reticles. In fact the SP reticle is epoch 1980 as well I think.
And of course both are pretty much useless especially under light polluted skies.
But tinkering about I discovered that the thread for the screw on ring for the month dial is exactly the same as that on my DBK21AU04.
But to make it work I'd have to cut off the tube where the eyepiece screws in to expose those threads. So which scope to sacrifice? The SW scope drew the short straw. I'm keen to keep the SP in as close to original condition as possible and its polar scope is decidedly better quality than the SW.
I hacksawed off the tube then filed it down smooth. I had a couple of goes at it as at first it was still too long to focus.
I tested the focus first on the Dandenong TV towers and then on the moon. When the stars finally came out I refined the focus further. To do this I was using a camera tripod so I had to point close to the pole to reduce the star movement.
Next step was to take a pic and plate solve. This told me FOV (2x1.5 degrees) and pixel size (11 arc-seconds) from which I could calculate a 105mm focal length.
Checking against Stellarium I could see that the dimmest stars visible in the image were around mag 8. Then looking at the FOV around the pole in Stellarium I could see that the stars there are mag 7 to 8 so I should be able to get a usable image.
The theory is that I can take an image and plate solve. Then rotate the RA axis 180 degrees and do the same again. Taking the midpoint should account for any collimation error and tell me where the mount is pointing. Then I can adjust accordingly and iterate as required.