Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonius
Hi All,
I've currently got a setup that has a certain amount of 12v power distribution via various step up/down transformers, but it ultimately revolves around having DC power to run the lab supplies. The idea is to be able to go fully mobile and get off road.
So my questions are as follows;
- Should I install an inline fuse? If so, what amperage, and what speed (fast-blow?)
- Since I would be running the NIC and the mount off the same source, do I need to worry about motors making the power 'dirty' via back EMF (at least I *think the effect is called back EMF? It's been a while). Do I need to do some kind of line smoothing?
- Do I need to install some kind of voltage regulator to maintain consistent voltage as the battery starts to deplete?
- Anything I haven't thought of?
My current setup involves a 12V lab supply that I distribute into a step-down transformer to get 5V for various USB devices where necessary. I also have a PWM controller for managing fan speed.
I *used to have a step *up transformer in the mix too, to get from 12V to 15V to power the actual mount, but I got stall issues when slewing and realised it needed more juice. It's much happier running on a separate lab supply where I can jack the voltage up to 18V (the maximum in the 12-18v range).
Many thanks for any help.
Markus |
I am doing the same thing as well, I am in the middle of re-designing the power supply functionality.
Any connection in power requires some protection. This can be in a couple of ways.
Using a currently limiting power supply like you and me but as I or we are doing to replace with battery in the future yes you will need fusing or some other protect method.
I personally will use electronic protection using MOSFET, mostly because I can. But fuses at the first point of call for any DIY job.
Even if you have a current limiting Lab power supply it is still best practice to fuse protect each output just in case one dew heater coil shorts or low resistance enough not to trip the main fuse. This usually burns out all the intermediate components instead.
Motor cleanliness should be a function that should be incorporated in the motor control unit.
For my camera, I use a linear regulator. The main reason is to maintain the camera voltage and reduce the noise generated from cheap switching regulators obtained from suppliers. Funny thing is that Jaycar has the switching voltage regulators I find dirty, yet I purchased a linear regulator from Jaycar that I was able to easily modify to get accurate regulation for my camera.
One by I found useful reducing my build requirements is an automotive 12V to USB regulator for most cars, They are cheap and gives me the necessary 5V I need for most USB power requirements.
As far as the NIC, what is the Voltage input?
If it 12V, I suppose it has its own internal regulator to maintain the voltage for the system. The specs should say what is the variation Min and max voltage input.
2 bobs worth