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The best calibration routine I have found to date, is to calibrate flats (Which can be at a range of exposure times) with a master bias, and lights with the resulting master flat and a matching master dark. Using a master bias in place of a master dark resulted in some brightening of the corners, presumably due to applying the flat frame to what little dark current these cameras have.
The benefit of being able to use a master bias to calibrate the lights instead of a master dark-flat (Or flat-dark, whichever term you go with) is that the flat exposure times can vary as much as you like. I set up my software to take dawn flats each session and exposures vary all the way from 40 to about 0.2 seconds depending on the approaching dawn, and which filter is being shot.
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