Interesting POV - putting CGE ahead...
http://www.astronomy.com/ASY/CS/foru.../ShowPost.aspx
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" align=left><TBODY><TR><TD class=f vAlign=top width="100%" height=10><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"><TBODY><TR vAlign=center><TD align=left>
RE: Losmandy G-8/11 vs Celestron CGE
</TD><TD align=right height=25><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=bottom><TD class=txt3 align=left></TD><TD align=right><NOBR></NOBR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD class=fh3 vAlign=top height=100><TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width="100%" align=left><TBODY><TR><TD width=1 rowSpan=2>
http://www.astronomy.com/ASY/CS/Them...ges/spacer.gif </TD><TD style="PADDING-RIGHT: 6px; PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 6px; PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top width="100%" colSpan=3><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 align=left><TBODY><TR><TD class=txt3 vAlign=top align=left>I currently use the Tak NJP, CGE, and LX200. I have used both the Losmandy GM-8 and G-11 in the past. The NJP is in a league of its own. The CGE is better than the G-11, but not by much. So, if you must have GOTO with the mount, I recommend the CGE. If you want to save some money, you could get a stock G-11 without Gemini GOTO. Either way, guiding and tracking will be very similar, though the CGE will be a little more "polished."
As for the OTA, I'm a big believer in starting out at low focal lengths and working your way up. It gets exponentially more difficult as you go up. Thus, the CGE or G-11 is a good starting point but I'd recommend getting a small apochromatic refractor to begin your astroimaging career. The Tak Sky 90 is probably the best compromise on price and functionality for this purpose. That would still leave money left over for a good CCD camera, or something like a Canon Digital Rebel or Nikon D70. If you get the Sky 90 on Astromart, you'll be able to resell it for close to what you paid for it should you ever feel the need to go bigger.
As much as everybody talks about the Fastar, why is it that very few people actually use it, at least not for an extended amount of time? It's good to start with because you don't have to guide the exposures due to the fast speeds and small image scale, but you'll outgrow it pretty quickly. An apo refractor is more versatile and will give better quality images.
I think when it comes to imaging, it's good to progress up the scale a bit, moving from OTA to OTA as your skills (and mount) improve. An example:
1.) Piggyback lenses from 28mm to 300mm
2.) Smaller apochromats like the Sky 90, TV-85, FS-60, or Orion 80mm ED.
3.) Small astrographs like the Tak FSQ-106, TV NP-101, or Tak Epsilons
4.) Medium sized apochromats like the Tak FS-128/152, AP 130, or TMB 130.
5.) Small catadioptric like the Vixen VC200L or 8" SCT with focal reducers.
6.) Larger catadioptics like the C-11, C-14, or comparable Meades.
7.) Long focal length astrographs like the Tak Mewlon, BRC, or Ritchey-Chretien Cassegrains.
You obviously spend money as you go up the list, but jumping straight to the longer focal lengths before you have the requisite skills can be pretty frustrating.
Good luck on your purchase...just do your research before you buy. My best advice is to look at tons of pictures on the Internet. Notice what equipment people are using. This will give you a good indication of what people are using and why. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>