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The often repeated question - what is the best combo?
I think you work it out back from what your interests are.
If you are primarily visual then that is a different setup to primarily imaging.
If you are primarily interested in imaging then the next question is what types of images are you interested in producing - widefield, galaxies, brighter nebulas? Different types of images require different setups.
No one scope is ideal for all things but some are more flexible than others.
A medium APO with a reducer, flattener, extender can capture many many objects.
Winning images are often widefield not narrow high magnification images. Widefield images are often more popular.
In my opinion a modern satisfying imaging setup which is a good all rounder would be around 130 to 160mm triplet APO from a good source (AP, Tak,TEC, APM/TMB). Mounted on a good mount like AP Mach 1, Tak NJP/EM400, Losmandy G11 with upgraded worm etc).
Then of course there is the camera which are a lot cheaper now than they used to be. There are numerous KAF8300 chipped cameras out there. QSI is popular as it includes a guiding solution.
But the order of importance is:
1. A good mount that is reliable and will achieve round stars in 10 minute exposures. If you can't achieve that you will not be able to produce high end images. That is the first target. Less exotic I know to have a high end mount instead of a high end scope but a high end mount with an Ok scope will still produce good images. A high end scope with a low grade mount will not.
2. Scope. Many scopes are good for imaging. APOs are the most expensive/aperture there is. GSO 8 inch RCs are cheap and plentiful and produce excellent images. APO may not be the best or ideal scope.
150mm APO requires a beefy mount. Mach 1 GTO probably could handle it but I doubt Roland would recommend that. He would say AP900 or more would be the go. Over mount your scopes not undermount them if you want good results.
With APOs you also want accessories like flatteners, reducers, extenders.
AP, Tak have the widest range of accessories. APM/TMB perhaps but not 100% sure. $20,000 for a 6 inch TMB is ridiculous, they are worth $6500 2nd hand tops.
Tak TOA130 2nd hand are around the US$4000 band.
TEC140 a very popular APO are around US$4750 2nd hand. Yuri dos not make a reducer though. APM make one now and I don't know if it works or not. My experience with TEC scopes is that reducers don't work well but I am aware of someone who matched an AP 155TCC (US$1500) to a TEC180. That would be hot.
3. If budget is a limit (and who doesn't face that problem) I suggest trying out Astromart.com to get 25% or more off new price. There are many good scopes/mounts/cameras for sale there at usually about 25% off new price.
As a guideL
Mount - Mach 1 GTO about AUD$7000 landed 2nd hand (there are 2 for sale on Astromart now).
G11 may be more like US$2800= AUD$4000 landed. Better still get one from someone in Oz. They come up from time to time.
Scope: TEC140 - About US$4750 = AUD$6000 landed.
FLT 110 F 1 AUD$2200 landed 2nd hand
FSQ106ED about $4,900 landed. FSQ106ED is the most popular and productive astroimaging widefield scope and you have no doubt seen many many outstanding images from them. This is the best buy in my opinion for APO imaging.
Camera: SBIG ST8300 about US$2000 including filters 2nd hand = $2750 landed roughly.
My suggestion is FSQ106ED 2nd hand, an upgraded G11 or the NEQ6 or similar that seem to perform well, SBIG ST8300 camera and filters.
I think you could put FSQ106/NEQ6/ST8300 with filters/Orion autoguiding kit + Photoshop for close to $10K.
Also your Tak FSQ106ED will not depreciate much over time, a William Optics will. They are probably good scopes but not considered highend like Tak, TEC, AP, APM/TMB.
If you want galaxy shots you can always get an 8 or 10 inch GSO RC 2nd hand for $2000 -3000 or so later, perhaps less.
Having had lots of scopes myself, my advice is you will pay more over the long term if you get 2nd rate equipment that you only end up selling at a considerable loss in order to get the better gear you wanted in the first place. Its cheaper long term but requires the $ at the start - a difficult conundrum.
Greg.
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