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Hi Chris,
Thanks for the compliment and kind words.
I use Live View with both the x5 and x10 magnification to fine focus the lens. When it gets dark, it can become tricky, but, you'll just know when objects look crisp (you can take test exposures to make sure the lens is in focus, too). Using the depth-of-field preview button on the side of your camera body can help here, too, as it shows you what will be in focus for a given aperture once you release the shutter.
I don't use a physical spot meter for these (not yet, anyway). The little rectangle that pops up in Live View, acts as a spot meter. You can move it around the scene, and you will get an exposure level reading underneath the image. Simply adjust your shutter speed until it falls where you want it to (typically on 0EV). You have to bear in mind when choosing your exposure that you don't blow the highlights and clip your shadows. It's easier to blow highlights than it is to clip shadows when doing long exposures. If you find you're going to blow the sky whilst trying to expose shadows, you have three options: a) don't include the sky in the composition; b) bracket your shots so you expose correctly for the sky and everything else; c) use graduated neutral density filters to hold the sky back whilst you expose correctly for everything but the sky.
I use the last option. It's challenging and the most difficult option, but, when it works (such as in this photo), it's party time.
H
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