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gday - Do it manually. Roughly focus and select endpoints option. the variation of the endpoints from the focus position will depend on your set up. You can limit it to say 250 or 300 steps either side. So if you are focused at say 3500 steps set the V curve to run from the endpoints of 3200 to 3800. Run a first V curve at say 20 step increments. When finished click on focus and it should focus using the first curve - then use (from memory - im at work) midpoint (or offset) its the other option from endpoints . the midpoint will be set to the last focus point and you set how far from that midpoint you want to run the curve - again dont go too far from focus it might not find the star - I generally use about 300 steps. Repeat the whole procedure at finer steps until the mean slopes agree as well as you can get them (you can delete your first rough curves once you build upo a few better ones). The variation (I forget whats it is called) should also be at a minimum - it is reported beside the two v curve slopes. You may need 10 to 12 good cruves for intial system calibration.
If it is getting lost in the middle of the run - that is where your focus should be best - shouldnt lose it there - it sometimes get lost a long way from focus but not at focus.. Either the scope is drifting off the star - I guide during the process or you are not starting at good focus. If you start a long way from focus this can sometimes happen. You can jog the focuser and focus manually prior to running the V curve using teh Jog tab.
You can efinately use it between exposures - My televue is a bit touchy with temperature variation and in summer I focus every exposure or every second exposure - takes about 40 to 50 seconds to focus with focus max.
I have had similar problems with a SC buit I know someone else who uses it succesfully with Meade ACF. I use it on refractors and it is fantastic - perfect focus every image.
mark
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