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Old 12-02-2010, 12:33 PM
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ReaPerMan (Paul)
Work & Play at Night

ReaPerMan is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Perth
Posts: 677
Thanks everyone for your help and encouragement, i'm off to bed now post nightshift but just a few words before i go to the land of Nod...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjjnettie View Post
Great first light Paul!

Do you keep a log of your settings?
I used to keep like a Recipe Book for different objects to refer back to.
I'm only just starting so this sounds like a great ideam thanks jjjnettie

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybarry View Post

Have you read Massy & Quirk's book "Deep Sky Astrophotography" ? It gives a fairly good rundown on some aspects of using Photoshop to good effect.

Regards,
Tony Barry
It's on my wish list

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevorW View Post
Being a GStar I assume that the exposure times where short like frames per second so all I can suggest possibly you need a lot more frames stacked and guiding would help improve the image overall but a good first effort and as JJ said you'll only get better the more you do
The weather conditions were a problem i started out in 128 integration with 150 frames untill i noticed that something was going wrong and i was loosing my image. It was dew forming on the glass to such an extant that i lost the picure!! I then deceided to reduce my capture to 50 frames each R G B and 20 frames for the dark. Inbetween filters i wiped down the glass to keep it clear (i dont have a dew controll system yet just a dew sheild. So this became my overriding limit for this imaging session.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lacad01 View Post
Just my 2c worth but agree with Trevor that more stacked frames will make a good difference and perhaps reduce the integration time when imaging something like M42 otherwise as you can see the core gets blown out severely. I don't own a GStar but a cctv camera which to all intents and purposes is the same as a GStar
It was my first time with this system and you have confirmed what i thought that if I reduce the frame intergration then i can reduce the overexposure. I took some initial images without the 0.5 reducer (so C9.25 @ F10) and at 128 frame integration the trapizium was separate and clear.

Thanks Guys
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