View Single Post
  #20  
Old 04-01-2010, 12:57 AM
rogerg's Avatar
rogerg (Roger)
Registered User

rogerg is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 4,563
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin66 View Post
Barry,
I'm not saying that it's the "absolute" best method, but IMHO it's much easier for the average guy/ gal to use.....
Thanks for your input .. I really appreciate having everyone's help and alternative methods.

I was at one stage attempting to use this method, and still might go back to it:

http://home.comcast.net/~jmmahony1/LX10/forkalign.html

That one appealed because (1) it uses stars for alignment, and in the past I've found mechanical adjustments best measured using stars to provide accurate reference points to the adjustments made. (2) it means the telescope can stay on the wedge, for at least one part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrampianStars View Post
I've used the aluminum walls from beer cans as shims
Great tip! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gary View Post
Dial gauges tend to be more convenient in these types of applications, because
unlike the calipers, they are sprung....
Thanks for the explanation, that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolhandJo View Post
One thing I will add is that when Barry was adjsuting/checking for Orthagonality he discovered that one of the OTA screws was loose..
Thanks for the tip. I should check all the screws everywhere on my LX200 are tight. My pointing used to be near on perfect and the scope hasn't left the observatory since those days (few years ago), but has been taken on/off the pier many times an had motors etc replaced many times due to lightning strike, so something must have got knocked or drifted then, or perhaps come lose.


Thanks to everyone else for your input also. I'm going to persue Barry's method some more this week when time permits.

Thanks,
Roger.
Reply With Quote