Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_4059
Brett,
Thanks for posting this. I am just getting ready to do the same thing with the Hypertune kit. I'm also looking at replacing the worm bearings with ceramic hybrid bearings from Deep Space Products and possibly replacing the main RA and DEC bearings also. I've managed to source Superlube (teflon based) locally and will be using this rather than lithium based grease.
I have a question regarding the main bearings - do you remember if these turned freely or if they were a bit stiff to turn. The black sealing ring of the new bearings I've sourced is a full contact seal meaning the seal rests on the inner bearing race and introduces a bit of friction in the bearing. I'm wondering if the original bearings also have full contact seals?
Another tip I've seen elsewhere is to use a piece of 1/4" hose on the end of the worm to rotate the worm while adjusting the mesh - this is a bit easier than trying to spin the spur gear in the motor housing.
Regards,
Peter
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I did not replace the bearings. The main bearing were a little resticted as the grease which is a coppery clear colour is very thick, the black ring around the bearings is easily removed by a small screwdriver. I removed the black ring and got as much of the grease out and replaced it with lithium, they then were a lot freer running.
I did not bother with the small bearing attached to the worm wheels, they ran free and smooth. That theory with the hose on the end of the worm wheel.... well I dont think it will work, as when you remove the black plates that cover the end of the worm wheel also hold the end point adjustment for the worm, and that will make the adjustment almost impossible.
I do not think the bearings are full contact, the black plates kind of just sit in there, there are also 2 tapered bearings in there as well that have no retaining ring.
Brett