I look at how
fast the star is drifting and then move the mount (either in Alt or Az) a corresponding amount. Usually I just uses the bolts to move it. If it's drifting really fast, then let's say one turn of the bolt moves the star the width of the FOV, I might do 3 turns, so the star is no longer visible in the FOV. Then I move the star back into the FOV with the hand controller. It's not a problem because I know which direction that star has moved, so it's easy to relocate it again. If it's only drifting slowly and I thing I'm getting close, then maybe only 1 or 1/2 turn. The the star stays in the FOV and it really fast to get it back in the centre and begin the next iteration.
No need to park the scope or physically move the tripod (less you are way way out). I'm never too far out when I set up at home because I have 3 marks on the ground to get the tripod roughly in the same spot each night, also I don't touch the Alt bolts when I pack up for the night. So it's also pretty close for the next time I use the mount.
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and I had previously bought a 12mm illuminated reticle EP, but found it way too bright, and very inconvenient to be squinting into, especially while adjusting the mount to bring the target star back on track if the scopes pointing high.
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I had all sorts of problem with my illuminated reticule EP until I got the
PulsGuide Pulsing Eyepiece Illuminator . This thing is one of the best astro investments I ever made. I can't recommend it enough!
The other thing I do is use a 1 1/4 inch diagonal to make the viewing position comfortable.