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Not anymore, but I've used a similar approach with platesolving and PolarAlignMax. Works well and can get you close in a reasonably short amount of time, but I'm a traditionalist in this regard. Unless you're building a 150 point TPoint model, polar alignment is still best done via a drift technique. Not with an eye piece I should add however, but the camera as its more sensitive at detecting drift. I routinely use PEMPro's drift function to check alignment. Given I use a permanent set up, I work on it until I get no drift over a 30 minute duration. I think for a portable rig, I'd strive for half that time and keep the subs within the range.
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