Here it is;
http://www.pbase.com/image/104362015
Some advice. I had an STL11XCM one shot colour camera for about a year and a half.
I talked to Alan Holmes at Sbig about the camera once.
His advice was to do the longest subexposure time you can like 30 minutes.
I found 30 minutes impractical for a few reasons ; tracking errors, investing too much time in a single exposure and being vulnerable to cloud interference etc.
But the point is the one shot colour camera has to work a lot harder than a mono camera as 4 pixels make up one colour pixel and the dye filters are not as efficient as the mono ones. So to get over the noise you need longer exposures. I used 15 minutes as standard. I also ran the camera as cold as I could possibly get it. -35C was optimum. Make sure you have darks made up of as many subexposures as possible. 6 - 8 would be minimum.
I used to callibrate in CCDstack and then align and combine using sigma 3 channel combine (correct name?) in Images Plus which seemed to give the best combine (it combines all 3 colour channels separately).
If you take a Ha image, bin the camera 2x2.
I found the above very helpful.
In hindsight I would think Noise Ninja would be a really needed accessory as one shot colour tends to be noisier in the dim areas than their mono equivalent.
That said one shot colour is fun to use, easy to process and you can get some excellent results. Also every image taken counts whereas with mono you can miss out on an image because clouds came over before you got say the blue filtered image. They are best on brighter objects and weakest on dim objects on objects with dim areas where the colour noise starts to show through.
I liked it.
Greg.