[erick (Eric)]

The spring clip makes sense. However, I would have expected these binoculars to have small adjustment set screws, two per prism, set at 90 deg to each other. Maybe you are just not seeing them from the inside. They are normally at the eye lens end of the prism. [EDIT - duh! two are at the eye lens end of the prism and two are at the objective lens end] They are likely to be under the rubber cover that is over the prism housing. Use a fine jeweller's screwdriver, or reverse side of a knife blade, to gently lift that rubber and work around the edge to see if you find the screws. [EDIT - do the front edge first, then the rear edge to find the other pair] They may have a blob of something over them to fix them in place from the factory. Once you scrape that out, it's hard to claim you never touched them!

25% different (left/right) is probably enough to fuddle your eyes/brain. If you can get that back to 10% or less, you may find your eyes can merge the images. Miscollimation of the images up/down is the real problem - a small difference here is a problem because while we can move our eyes independently left/right, most of us cannot move independently up/down.

Full collimation - where the binoculars maintain collimation as you adjust the interpupillary distance (IPD) (ie. bend the eyepieces together or apart!) - is an art left to an expert. Conditional collimation - where the binoculars are collimated at a chosen IPD can be done by us - with care. But I'm a bit worried about starting from a position where the images are level up/down, but one is displaced 25% left/right. A thought - check that the barrels are screwed in cleaning. I have seen a pair of binoculars with one barrel screwed in cross threaded, so it was pointing the wrong direction.

Let us know what you find.

I'll look up some references to collimation with some photos and post.

Eric