Hi Peter
Okay I understand what you are saying.
You are talking about objects with a magnitude of say about 10 and dimmer.
Is that about right.
Now if you take darks, flats and bias frames etc and subtract these from the raw data surely that would remove most of those noise components if the temperature remains constant. You would then have a signal free of noise albeit a very small signal which would necessitate a great deal of frames to get a reasonable signal to noise ratio. Shoot so much to learn.
I was out tonight trying out my gear and am almost at wits end trying to get polar alignment. I live in a light polluted suburb, my house roof is in the way of octans and still to learn the intricacies of drift alignment.
This is not an easy hobby and not having a permanent setup compounds the issue. I think my next expenditure must be a shed with roll off roof so I dont have to go through this pain every time.
I took lots of shots but with terrible tracking and star trails plus coma. I never used my coma corrector. Am reasonably happy with the 40DH sensitivity to Ha and star colour in general. Also not having the focus extender make the fitting of the camera a precarious arrangement as I must offset the nose piece in the focuser as i was using 40mm eyepiece projection.
Theory and practice are light years apart and as much as I think I know, putting it into practice is another story.
Well I suppose perseverance will have its rewards, so I press on whenever I get an opportunity.
Thanks for your patience and input.
Regards
Steve
