Hi Scott
A few additional thoughts:-
Laser collimator. My second-hand one came with no instructions, so I've had to work it out myself. The elongated spot moving 10mm at 3m distance on rotation, sounds too much. Your focal length is 1.5m so down and back for the laser beam is 3m. So I'd suggest you want the spot to stay almost on the same spot (say <2mm) at 3m. Another tip - the other day someone mentioned that they had trouble getting the batteries out and found they had to loosen the set grub screws in the collimator (compressing the case a little at the battery end, I guess). I had the same problem a while ago but didn't discover that solution. Of course, one would have to reset the laser collimation after batteries have been changed and grub screws put back into place. I'm going to look for a small red laser that throws a small circular spot and replace the laser in mine (sick of the sausage - it was OK in the 8", but the extra focal length in the 12" just tips the balance to "YUCK") As long as your nails aren't bending, they should be fine - but making a wooden "V-block" would be the best move.
Primary lock screws. Try with and without the lock screws done up. Most feel that the supplied GSO primary mirror springs are too soft and replace them from the hardware shop or specialist suppliers ("Bob's Knobs" etc.) Tip the laser from zenith to horizon while watching the return laser beam and see what happens, with and without locking screws done up.
Finderscope is just to get an object into the FOV of an eyepiece - probably in your 25-30mm fl eyepiece. Don't expect any more of it that that. The GSO finders seem to be hit and miss - some give shocking views - but you should be able to adjust it to focus well enough on stars at the centre of the crosshairs. Play with it during the daytime on distant TV towers or mountain top - BUT don't point it at or near the sun!!
Scope "drift" - in altitude, I expect? Need to find a way to increase friction on the alt bearings usually by maximising spring extension in the GSO models (downside is likely increased "stiction" meaning it is difficult to hand track at higher magnifications) or balance the scope with weight. Do a bit of searching. There are many methods - magnets, weights and velcro. Even hanging a piece of chain off the mirror end down to the ground. As you go down in elevation, more links hang off the end and increase the balancing weight. I haven't done this yet - it would be funny to see a scope with a chain tail!
Search around the site for ways to improve the motion of your scope in alt and azi - search "stiction", "teflon", "ebony star" and you'll find examples. Check the Projects & Articles and Equipment Reviews as well.
Yes, once you get down to a 9mm or 6mm eyepiece and barlowed, the earth's rotation is very pronounced! Forget those planets - stick your scope on the edge of 47 Tuc or Omega Centauri and let it drift through the field. You'll get a few minutes of joy!! With practice and improved alt/azi motion, you will be able to move the object back across the FOV to have another many seconds look at it. Otherwise you'll need another $900+ to buy a quality equatorial platform (or try to build your own for a few $00s). Rings plus GEM to use a 12" for visual? Well, some do - good luck.
Yep, some moon filters are green. When my cheese is green you just gotta scrape it off. I prefer blue! Invest in two polarising filters instead. There is a recent thread on filters - you should find that easily.
Forget seeing any detail on the planets until they are well elevated in the sky (except Mercury and Venus where you don't really have that choice, but you won't see detail on them apart from crescent phase.)
Happy viewing!
Eric
