Thanks all.
Its the deepest ive gone with the Omega, one can see different shapes in it, and outlying nebulosity.
When taking test images I noticed how small I could get the stars, seeing was quite good, also I had the scope out from sunset to help equalize the mirror temp. Mind you the temperature plummeted as the night wore on, making it hard to get a dark the same temp as the light frames. This is where a cooled camera is good, not only less noise to start with, but taking a dark at the exact same temp as the lights makes the subtraction process far more accurate.
I estimate that 1 HOUR shot with Houghys cooled DSLR would have less noise than a 10 minute uncooled one at 15 degrees ambient. As Houghys also has an internal thermoprobe one can monitor the CMOS temp and as the night cools, can reduce the cooling to keep the temp. constant. Id get about 3 or 4 degrees CMOS temp on a night like last night, and could keep it constant when taking the darks too.
One other REALLY handy thing I do have is the Canon ACKDC20 AC Adaptor Kit. No more battery worries, I just keep going all night. Tad expensive, I got mine from
http://www.cameraworld.com.au/Canon_.../canack600.htm
but at the time could not find any on Ebay but they might appear there from time to time. The adaptor has good capacitors in it as it will "store" a few seconds of power so momentary power interruptions wont shut down the camera.
I should point out that Hougys cooled camera kit includes a power adaptor that downconverts the 12volts that the peliter cooler uses and the whole thing runs off a 240v to 12v PSU so he doesnt have to worry about flat batteries either.
Scott