Perhaps just out of curiosity what if you were to take the dark frames at the start of your session when the camera electronics haven't introduced a lot of heat?
I am not trying to talk you out of playing and hopefully someone more conversant on this subject will come in with some great advice but I have heard some horror stories with older non cooled cameras people played with fitting Peltier coolers to and seen the end result (and more butchery of $1,000 plus cameras than I care to remember, some people really do have money to throw around), I don't.. Technology is improving where the cameras do perform better than in the past without cooling but I also know most professionals do go for a cooled camera and understand why.
Do you have any idea of the time frames of the subs you would like to acquire? I'm guessing placing the camera in the freezer. in a sealed bag with desiccant would be out of the question, just a stupid thought.
I'm full of pain medication and sleeping pills so I'm probably making little sense now
I like the specs on the 585, it looks like a decent sensor.
One silly question, is it the square format like the 533?
Photos should never be square unless it's taken with my old 2 1/4 square cameras (6x6 medium format old still cameras I have a collection of). Though imaging round planets it all makes sense.
I would not use them for astronomy of course, the film processing would cost a fortune and my experience when I started with a 35mm camera before information was freely available on the internet (or the internet, it was pay and play and was a costly learning curve. I have some beautiful black frames (underexposed nothingness).....
I believe certain model ZWO cameras have a desiccant filter but I wouldn't have a clue where it goes.
Keep in mind daytime temperatures will be much higher than night time temperatures especially during winter.
Though with your 3D housing keeping the two items somewhat separated condensation may not be an issue.
I have used cold fingers on certain items but haven't played with cameras for fear of damaging anything I may be able to afford which is far from high end.
Though my chat with the gentleman selling his Player One camera has me considering a fan perhaps.
I also live in Lithgow where even our summer temperatures aren't always very high (we had night temperatures down to 3C over summer, unbelievable but great sleeping weather). while our winter temps drop down quite low.
Your 8.29 mega pixel sensor has me excited, my Neptune has 6.3 mega pixels I believe.
I still remember when I thought the 640x480 from a Philips web cam was impressive.
Cloudy nights may have some information on this camera and this modification, it would be worth searching.
I'd love to see your results regardless of what transpires modification or not.
https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/4...eltier-cooler/
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/5...90-asi224-etc/
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/6...l-or-malarkey/
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Originally Posted by GlenD-CloudyNights
Longer term this cooling system may give you problems. The non-cooled ASI cameras do not incorporate dessicant moisture control in the sensor chamber. Condensation is likely in cooling and warming cycles. This is a common problem found in DSLR cooling hacks, which can lead to internal failure. You could try using Argon purging of the sensor area but I doubt the sealing is good enough and you would have to work out a way to inject the gas.
I have built several cold finger cooled Canon's, and the only way I found to beat condensation was to enclose the camera in an Argon filled plastic zip lock bag, but this requires a good seal around the tube extension, and a screw in filter to seal the chamber in the front. Good luck.
Longer term this cooling system may give you problems. The non-cooled ASI cameras do not incorporate dessicant moisture control in the sensor chamber. Condensation is likely in cooling and warming cycles. This is a common problem found in DSLR cooling hacks, which can lead to internal failure. You could try using Argon purging of the sensor area but I doubt the sealing is good enough and you would have to work out a way to inject the gas.
I have built several cold finger cooled Canon's, and the only way I found to beat condensation was to enclose the camera in an Argon filled plastic zip lock bag, but this requires a good seal around the tube extension, and a screw in filter to seal the chamber in the front.
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Originally Posted by Other CloudyNights post
I tried, I failed (Ice formed inside the case and temporally shorted an electronic circuit)... returned, repaired and learned my lesson....Pat Utah
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It seems the solution may lay in what temperature you go down to and having good control of that temperature variance.
As I mentioned, there is information around for and against this project.