Quote:
Originally Posted by multiweb
My thoughts as well. There is definitely a local demand.
You'll have to ask for exact specs in a precise predefined format so there is no room for interpretation after acceptance. If the part differs from specs, agreed, then you should provide a new one at your own cost but if it is within specs then that's the buyer's choice. Free part, return, garantee is a can of worms. There might not be much money in custom parts only so it might be worth your while thinking of producing a limited stock of generic spacers, M42/48, TAK threads, etc... The usual stuff that everybody's always after. That could be your cashflow.
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Old thread I know.
In relation to the custom manufacture of adapters I have a friend who owns his own engineering business locally and I often get him to machine varying bits and pieces I design. Most of my stuff is more camera adapter related but whenever he asks me for tolerances I always say "exactly as marked, the item needs to be exactly that size". He also rarely charges me for the jobs but I always insist in the least I pay for materials if it's a quick job or labour if it's not quick
Now this does get a little confusing and very soon I'll have a decent lathe and milling machine set up to play myself (I purchased them for my son).
As it is I'm waiting for my engineer friend to drill and tap the mount holes on the new compound table (cross slide) I purchased to mount the mill on. It came as a package where the milling machine is to be mounted to the lathe but I decided a separate table makes it so much more usable. I don't expect fast, if he can slot it in when he has the time I'm fine with that.
My problem is with my stubborn "no tolerance, exactly as drawn" is I've noticed my large, heavy aluminium camera adapter (to 2") which takes an eyepiece causes me grief when I pair it with other manufactured adapters. Playing last week I slipped some other spacer I purchased into the end to allow clearance for the eyepiece (from camera mirror-full frame Nikon DSLR), it slipped in so easy but I could NOT remove it again after everything spent considerable time out in the cold. I ended up filing and sanding the purchased unit down after I managed to remove it with force the next day (great force and heat to the other adapter).
When I get everything set up I'll make a new unit and it will be much lighter and there will be a slight tolerance so other bits and pieces slip in and back out again with ease.
There is a question here for those in the know; How much clearance without getting slop that causes misalignment (or worse, a potential drop scenario)?
I have several engineering books here from my studies over the years and my machining text book,maybe they address the issue, I just can't remember.
https://i.postimg.cc/J4Ldr8gw/IMG-1960-LR.jpg
NO, I'll never be able to make the things like Josh makes, in the quality he makes them but I will play for myself where I can.