Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn488
Was hoping to use the lens at around f2 - 2.8.
The main light pollution I have in my area is the glow from the city which give my images a yellowish tinge. I live in a Bortle 6 zone.
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I would say it's a little unusual to notice a yellowish tinge unless you are shooting a nightscape at much a wider angle than available with a 135mm lens on a crop sensor camera. Just checking - Are you sure your white balance is set correctly to
Daylight? Still it might be just that way. Certainly if you look at the street lights and they are yellow/orange then it's likely its a high pressure sodium lamp, whose light can be tamed somewhat with a Neodymium type filter, sometimes called didymium or redhancer, red-intensifier filters. The best that I've tried / seen is the Marumi ? Crystal Optics brand. Hoya also make a type, but I've tried those and they don't cut as much as the Marumi nor is the contrast as good. There are other Astro brands too with similar filters, sometimes called skyglow filters as well as other types, which sometimes create a significant colour cast, so try first if possible. There are more expensive name brands also available such as Baader and IDAS, etc...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn488
Just an idea. Would I be better off astro modding my 1200D and keep that as my dedicated portable astro camera that way I can still use my 700D for everyday photography? The only issue with that is I am not confident enough to mod the camera myself and the services I found nationwide are no less than $500 which doesn't seem like it's worth it as I am not out every night taking photos.
I was considering a cooled OSC but the purpose of this setup is to be very portable (DSLR and batteries) and I have no intention of adding an autoguider yet.
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For now use your DSLR as is, nice and portable as you say, and try to get somewhere dark to see what's possible before buying new gear. A modified DSLR will get you over twice as much exposure as an unmodified DSLR (~65% transmission Versus ~25% transmission of Hydrogen Alpha) , but really ONLY in the Hydrogen ALpha wavelengths / deep reds. There's still plenty to capture using an unmodified DSLR and its more muted (only in the deep reds) RGB sensor if you go for broadband targets. If you're thinking of a new camera at some stage, some of the FujiFilm mirroless cameras have excellent Hydrogen Alpha Response (~45% transmission) in their standard (unmodified state). I'm not sure if that's across all models or just the earlier models like the Pro1 and X-E1.
Best
JA