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The easiest way to set up the eaf in NINA I've found is to set the backlash to overshoot and use 120 in either backlash in/out box but not both. Too much is fine in this mode but too little wont work properly.
Bad curves can be for the usual reason, clouds, but also if you have any slop in the focuser, so keeping it tweaked up (travel & tension) is crucial. Setting your steps too small can look like that too, try doubling your steps to see. Just as an example reference for steps: On the EON85(R&P) I use 15, on the 8" sct (crayford) I use 100, on the BT200(R&P) i use 50 (I think, that pc is not up). I use 3 offset steps but I started with 5 until I got it sorted(ish).
I think RC's focus like SCT's so you will need to set you movement direction in the driver such that the final move is "in", given the "overshoot" sequence. See NINA discord for an explanation/animation of overshoot.
Once it's sorted you can set your R^2 threshold quite high, mine's 0.95 on the refractor & newt and 0.9 on the sct.
And the Hocus Focus plugin, I think I've used the built-in once, ages ago.
NINA has the HFR history panel which I find indispensable. HFR is basically half FWHM, at least roughly, and along with star count become the session quality meter. I pair it with the guide panel in NINA but just periodically check the guiding and monitor the HFR/stars graph normally
A bahtinov mask is great, perhaps essential, for confirming focus, especially while you're learning how the EAF do.
I am/was binning x3 in PI to tidy up the bad seeing, probably, ok definitely, too poor for the sct. I was just mentioning it to give a reference for the very poor seeing, yet the singular(ish) guide star was working fine.
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