When the mount-head first arrived, I could pose it like this...
The clamps, the clutches, and their parts were in their bag, in their box still. The reason I could pose it like that is because the axes were bound up, stiff, tight; the DEC-axis in particular, and now I know why. I suppose I could've worked the axes to where I could've used it like that, even, but there's no telling how much damage would've occurred as a result. But now, all is right as rain; well, not quite...
What are those? They look like...buttons; wee, black, plastic "buttons". Mustn't tighten that brass bolt against the side of the aluminum worm-gear, and without a fail-safe. I know what they are, and as you might've guessed already, they're for it.
The black, plastic "buttons" are 5mm in thickness; and 9.4mm in diameter, but I wanted maximum coverage.
Glamour shot...
...a brass rod, about a foot in length, and 10mm in diameter instead...
No, I didn't have to force that rod into the hole. It actually wiggled from side to side afterwards.
No, not at all. I will not be substituting brass "buttons" for those of black-plastic. Rather, Synta substituted black-plastic for those of brass; bad, Synta.
When duplicating a metal article with wood, or plastic, the replacement is generally larger, to compensate, to match the strength and what-not of the metal article. Conversely, when duplicating a wooden or plastic article with metal, the reverse is true. You make it smaller; in this case, thinner, but not too thin, or else it might get squashed a lot sooner, broken up, and then I'd have a mess to clean up.
Many years ago, in upstate New York, a gentleman was making miniature table-saws, for sale. His company was called "Preac", and, unfortunately, is no longer in business. This is my own Preac, and with the largest table-option offered at the time...
The standard table-option was half that.
With brass being non-ferrous, non-iron or non-steel, I can saw that, too, and with that.